Hard starting 830CK

oldproudvet

Well-known Member
Gentlemen: I recently picked up a '65 830CK 8spd. It takes a minimum of 30 seconds w/the glow plug to get it to fire. My 2 400s and my 1070 pop with the key, down into the 20s. I'm not familiar with the Bosch in line pump as of yet. Worked with the single piston rotary for years, they're awesome. Any thoughts? I've yet to locate the proper shop manual. Thanks
 
I should have elaborated. This is a COLD start only issue, warm it starts immediately and runs out like a watch. I've used it to cut around 140 acres of grass hay so far, very happy with it and quite an upgrade from my 400s. John, I will flow the injectors this winter, I've got the Bosch test eqpt. It runs so well it's not worth tinkering with now. No blowby, no oil consumption issues in the hours I've used it. Thanks
 
I would first check timing of injection pump That is easiest to do.Providing the pointer at fly wheel is corectly set an not bent turn crankshaft till you find the 29tdc mark on fan pulley.Than remove big cap nut directly in front of injection pump an if you are lucky an are on firing time marks of cylinder no 1 there should be a scribe mark on pump flange an one on gear lined up.if no line to be seen you will have to turn engine one full revolution as you were on no 4 cylinder.Scribe marks are very faint an you need to clean an look closely to see them.If they are close but not in line loosen injection pump an line them up.If that is not problem do as John said.
 
That's just kind of the nature of a 30 series. I have never saw one that started good cold with out some help. Warmed up they start fine, good old tractors.
 
Not so. With 2 premium 12V batteries hooked in parallel, good cables, any 30 series should start without aid down to 45F. Our 800 & 730CK will both start down to 35F - 40F without the glow plug. Often times, hard start comes after pounded valves & seats & a poor valve job. I cringe when I hear someone say they had the "valves ground" on a diesel, especially a CASE.
 
said this before John, they did not do that new here at our elevation, maybe where you are they do/did but not here, if Larry's 830 starts with the glow plugs that easy he is golden to me, I would not worry a bit about it
cnt
 
The 830 and 1030 always started much harder than the 730 and 930. An 830 in tip top shape will start like a 730 that is 3/4 shot.
 

I have heard of 830CK diesels that were over-hauled using thin wall sleeve sets that were hard to start.

Do you have blow by or excessive smoke when you first start the tractor?

What about a little miss-fire from an injector when it first starts?
 
Case issued a service bulletin in regards to hard starting after overhaul. I don't remember exactly which engine it addressed but sounds like this model. It gave detailed piston protrusion, connecting rod center to center dimensions and valve recessions as I remember. I know I gave a copy to the local machinist for his reference but I don't know if I have a copy anymore or not. At any rate, it was one particular line of their engines that was giving the problem and I believe it was energy cell injected, not the direct injection open chamber engines.
 

Do not grind the valve seats back in to the heads!!!!!!! Put in new seats and new valves if they are thin!!! At higher elevations raise the ex seat a little. That area IS THE COMBUSTION chamber on a powercell engine.
 
I wonder if the compression is just a little less . It would be interesting to CC them and figure it out. If I ever have 830 heads off for valve job I will try to install thicker seats under the valves that are up in the hole in the head. I have done that on 930's and it has made a huge difference. The 830's are like the energizer bunnys, I have never had one apart.
 
The machine shop that works on my heads simply installed a thicker seat. The outside diameter that sticks out of the head needs to be ground to a radius rather than square so it will not get hot. DO NOT do this on the valve that is flush with the head or it will hit the piston!
 

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