SC CASE...Need Help!

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
This tractor is humbling me. Do any of you know of someone in the Green Bay area that could help me? Tractor continues to be very underpowered. I think timing and fuel are okay, but I'm not sure of anything at this point.

Thank You,
Glenn FitzGerald
 
Glenn - I"m west of Appleton and I work in GB. I would be willing to stop and take a look. And if I can"t figure out a problem, I know a guy who can. Send me an email if you"re interested.
 
Thank you very much Fry. I'm gonna work on it a bit tomorrow & if that doesn't work I will contact you. My phone number is (920) 360-9704. Feel free to call me. I'll be home all day tomorrow.

Thank you,
Glenn F.
 
I was referring to internal rust holes which would cause exhaust gases to directly enter the intake manifold. This is a common problem with the original manifolds on pre-1952 machines.
 
While running put it in gear, hold the brakes, put a little bit of load on it with the clutch and watch the governor rod at the carburetor to see if opens up the throttle. Have you checked the cylinder compression?
 
Hi Loren,
Compression is 115-120 on all four cylinders. I will check the governor action with the brakes set. I know even when I pull the throttle linkage right by the carburetor it still accelerates too slowly.

Yesterday I pulled a neighbor's minivan with stuck rear brakes out of the weeds, and it would barely pull it ln low gear.

Something is wrong. Before putting it in storrage seven years ago I was pull starting a stubborn DC around (timing was off) with no problems. Lots of power.


Thanks,
Glenn F.
 
Ground or remove the wire from one spark plug at a time while running. If the engine doesn"t idle rougher each time you remove one, then there is a problem with that cylinder. Have you had the valve cover off to adjust the valves? You could have a bent push rod which would still give you good compression, because the valve at the bent push rod wouldn"t be opening.
 

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