PTO on DB 990

Farmallb

Well-known Member
I hooked it up to my NH 857 and started out. Made a bale aropund 18in dia when smoke came out of my rear end lol. I couldn't run the tractor, and I couldn't shift out of gear. After awhile, I was able to jump it and the pto had or was able to be shifted out of gear and I ran it back to the house.
I had it on the high side. of the pto while bailing.

IF somethings messed up, anyh idea what I might be looking at as to cost of repairs, ballpark?
 
I just went out and tried it with it being cold. Could not shift the PTO either direction with clutch clear to the floor with engine running. Whats messed up in it??
 
Sir,
High on the PTO is 1000RPM. Your baler is a 540RPM machine. Why did you chose the 1000RPM speed?
I have been following your posts for the last two months about this 990 you bought, and to be very truthful with you,, YOU are a person whom should never own a tractor because you know nothing about them.
You would have been far further ahead, financially and mentally, if you hired someone to make your hay.
I know this is Blunt, but!!!!
Loren
 
Well, ive had my granddads CC Case and have drove it since I was 8.
I have a 48 H Farmall that ive had for around 5yrs without a bit of problem.
I have a 1950 Demonstrator Cub Farmall that ive had for around 6yrs with no problem.

My problem is, likely, that ive never had experience with a tractor with a 2 stage clutch, or with 3pt hookup, or with diesel, and all that goes along with diesel.
 
Bare with my critisum.
I was turned loose with a Case model L at 8yrs. old.
Those tractors at that time furnished belt power, not PTO power.
When you drove the Farmall H, you were lucky if you had one with a 1-3/8" 540 PTO shaft. What PTO implement did you run with it.
You may have started young, but you seam to have a gap in your farming experience.
All of us here who have replied to your posts will likely still try to help you with your dilemas, but you need to step up with some common sence also.
Have you aquired an opp. manual for your 990, and sat down and read it yet?
It aint no CC, with 3 forward gears and a hand clutch.
Loren
 
I agree 100% with Loren, by using it in the 1000rpm PTO i would think you have burnt the clutch out. I sold David Brown tractors in the 1960s and still repair them for a living and have great respect for them. Get an operators manual and READ IT THREE TIMES before you get back on the tractor seat before you ruin the tractor. MJ
 
Sorry for your troubles, but Loren is right. You need to back up and start learning all over again. READ THE OPERATORS MANUAL. You ran a 540 machine at 1000 rpm PTO speed and over heated the PTO clutch. The good news is that fixing it isn't the worst job in the world. Actually, I'm not sure what you smoked if there was "smoke coming out of the rear end". The PTO clutch is in the bellhousing. Could be you lost a bearing in the rear end. Again, not the worst job to fix and much easier than the PTO clutch.

You have a real good tractor there. Slow down and stop abusing it. We've been trying to help but you don't listen.
 
Me and my boy were trying to bale my field of Sudan Grass. It plugged up the bailer right off. So I thought that running the baller faster would help, and it did for about 100ft. We had the DB as slow as it would go, which I thought was still too fast.
 
Ive read all your commets, and thank you for them.
My question is,
do any of you have a ball park idea of what it will cost me to have a mechanic put the clutch to rights again.
 
It depends on what is wrong with it. "Smoke from the rear end" sounds like a bearing. Smoke/hot clutch smells from in front of the steering wheel on the bellhousing would be the PTO clutch. The PTO clutch requires splitting the tractor, disc and maybe pressure plate, probably going to eat up a $grand or so. A bearing in the rear end might be a simple $20.00 fix or not. Hard to say without knowing whats toasted.

Any chance something is busted/seized on the baler? If it's not free turning then you are going to have problems. Have you ever run this baler before?
 
I have dry ran it several times. I replaced ALL the nuts on the chain and put in place of them lock washers, a drop of thread sealent and a lock nut. I put in 3 of the rollars that were missing. I oiled the heck out of the roller chains, and the floor chains.

There is one floor chain missing. 3rd one from one side and 4th from the other I intend to get, and also replace a #60 roller chain that I don't trust, but at the present has been heavily oiled and runs fine. One cyl leaks oil and I will replace that. Also needs about 2 doz teeth replaced.
I intended to do this between the time I used it now, and when I would need it again.

I would say, other than not having seen the tie mech work, that it operates fine.
 
Well , I hate to sound like a broken record, but do you have the operators manual for the baler? Do you know anyone that has run a baler like it that could take a listen? That's where I'd start. And I'd put the pto in the tractor in neutral and turn the shaft by hand- if you can. If you can't or you hear grinding sounds, then you probably have a bad bearing in the rear end pto shaft. If it turns fine then I don't know where the "smoke" was coming from. Not any chance the u-joint on the bale PTO shaft was bad and smoking?
 
Well, I hate to sound like a broken record, lol, but YES I have both the operators manual and the repair manual for the bailer. I can take a pipe wrench onto the pto shaft and easily turn the bailer. Ive had it hooked and running off my 48 H Farmall several times before I got the 990 D Brown.
The U joints on the bailer are fine.

I was standing behind the tractor/bailer, and at an angle to see both easily. Boy was driving it. I was trying to bale long stem haygrazer that was around 3 to 4ft tall. I saw the smoke. From where I stood it looked like it was coming from the rear. Boy said it came up from all around him. The tractor wouldn't start, and was HARD to shift. I couldn't shift the PTO out of gear.
A day later I tried to run the tractor and shift the PTO in gear. No Go. I stopped the tractor and could THEN shift it into geat. Then I started the tractor and it ran fine for a couple minutes. I shut it off.
 
Sounds like you ruined/smoked the clutch. Maybe the baler too if you had it in High PTO. That little 990 would have been putting almost 1200 RPMs into it if you had it at full throttle. Surprising something didn't come apart.

I have to agree with Loren. You are way over your head, stop before someone gets hurt/maimed/killed. Kinda why I quit answering your posts after a while, don't want to be a party to that, even though I try to offer direction/help to everyone with a DB issue.
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:58 07/18/14) Well, I hate to sound like a broken record, lol, but YES I have both the operators manual and the repair manual for the bailer. I can take a pipe wrench onto the pto shaft and easily turn the bailer. Ive had it hooked and running off my 48 H Farmall several times before I got the 990 D Brown.
The U joints on the bailer are fine.

I was standing behind the tractor/bailer, and at an angle to see both easily. Boy was driving it. I was trying to bale long stem haygrazer that was around 3 to 4ft tall. I saw the smoke. From where I stood it looked like it was coming from the rear. Boy said it came up from all around him. The tractor wouldn't start, and was HARD to shift. I couldn't shift the PTO out of gear.
A day later I tried to run the tractor and shift the PTO in gear. No Go. I stopped the tractor and could THEN shift it into geat. Then I started the tractor and it ran fine for a couple minutes. I shut it off.

If the baler runs on the H then we can assume it's okay. First I would check the clutch adjustments per the manual. I'd also check the PTO shaft like I posted earlier. If the clutch is properly adjusted and there is no indication that the PTO bearing in the rear end is bad then you probably toasted the PTO clutch. You can pull off the inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing and check the clearances per the manual, but you're probably looking at splitting the tractor and replacing the PTO clutch disc and probably the pressure plate. Your boy saying the smoke was coming up all around him sure sounds like the PTO disc cooking. Probably smelled like hot brakes? Might as well do the drive line disc too and the throw out bearing. I just did this and it cost me about $1200.00 with a friend only charging $150 for the use of his garage and his help. To got to a shop and have it done I'd figure at least $1500.00.

Any chance your boy was riding the clutch pedal and burnt out the throw out bearing? Does it shift through the road gears okay? Is it only the PTO thats giving issues?
 
Just went out and tried the transmission on the DB. This is Sat. IT WORKS GREAT. Not the slightest bit of grind in it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:12:22 07/19/14) Just went out and tried the transmission on the DB. This is Sat. IT WORKS GREAT. Not the slightest bit of grind in it.

Okay, does the PTO go into gear too?
 
Can you turn the PTO shaft by hand with the engine off like I said? Is it bound up or does it make any sounds if you can turn it? If you grab the end of the PTO shaft and move it around is there any play up and down or sideways? Did you adjust the clutch per the manual?
 

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