How do I tell if the block and/or head need to be planed?

I have a DB 1210 that has blown 3 head gaskets in about 500 hours. The first one blew between the 3rd cylinder and a push rod port. The second two blew between the 3rd and 4th cylinders. Holding a straight edge across the block between the 3rd and 4th there is not really any gap, but holding the straight edge length wise across the middle of the 3rd and 4th I"ve got about .006. I have almost that much gap length wise between 1 and 2 also, but it has never blown there. The head doesn"t seem to have much gap either direction.

Thanks for any help. I like the tractor quite a bit, but I"m getting tired of replacing head gaskets.
 
Was the head properly torqued in the prescribed sequence when new gaskets were installed???? Was the head retorqued in the proper sequence after being warmed up to temp.?????, and valve clearance reset. If the headbolts were not torqued in proper sequence, and not retorqued after warm up, the problems you describe will happen.
loren
 
I did not retorque after the first replacement, but did after the second. The sequence was followed both times. I did have the head planed the first time but did not bother the second time. Valves clearances were were reset both times.
 
Did you make sure that the nuts would go below the level of the head on the studs? Sometimes, crud, rust, or a few shallow studs can prevent the head from pinching the gasket evenly.
 
.006” is quite a bit, hope you haven’t been using a gasket remover on a die grinder, those will eat away at the block/head surfaces, particularly between the cylinders and around the edges of the cylinders, then the fire rings aren’t held tight enough in those areas. Depending on what kind of machine is used to resurface it, you may be able to leave the crank/rods/pistons in the block. We can do that on one of the machines at work because it uses a single cutter and cuts dry (no fun trying to keep things clean doing a short block), but the old block grinder we have pours coolant over the piece you’re working on. Might be able to save some work that way. I would recommend having at least the block resurfaced. Check the piston protrusion when it’s done though, you may have to have the pistons cut down if they take a lot off the block. I wish I had a spec for you, I looked for one for that 219 recently and can’t find it in our books. In the engine I’m working on they seem to be even with the block.
 

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