1070 steering hand pump

I installed new seals in the pump but when I tighten the bottom cover the shaft is binding & won't turn even when I put the old seal back in. It's the large seal. The new seal is about 1/8" taller but both cause the binding. I have a service manual but must have missed something. Can somebody help w/this.

Thanks,
Dennis

DENNIS THE NEW SEAL IS ALWAYS A LITTLE TALLER THAN THE OLD ONE AS THERE NEEDS TO BE A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF CRUSH TO SEAL PROPERLY. REMOVE THE SEAL AND ASSEMBLE END COVER AND TORQUE BOLTS TO ONLY 5 INCH POUNDS. THE SHAFT SHOULD TURN NORMALLY AT THAT TORQUE. IF NOT SOMETHING MUST BE ASSEMBLED WRONG OR SOMEKIND OF CONTAMINATION IS IN THE PARTS CAUSING BINDING. CLEANLINESS IS VERY IMPRORTANT AS WELL AS THE FINAL TORQUE OF THOSE END CAP BOLTS, OVER TIGHTENING WILL CAUSE BINDING. ROD.

Rod

It doesn't bind when bolts are lightly tightened & I have checked service manual many times but will go over it again. Thanks for your help Rod.

Dennis

5 inch pounds isn't much more than finger tight.

Reassemble pump and tighten the bolts to only the specified torque, no more and the binding should not occur. I have myself tightened them just a little bit more for good measure and sure enough the shaft starts binding. Rod.

Rod

I'm not sure why but after letting the pump sit for a couple hrs. while I took a break to do other things I tightened the cover a little at a time & kept checking for binding until I got to around 18 ft. lbs. & there was no binding. Is 18 ft. lbs. enough or should I go to 20 & see if it binds. Service manual says 18-22. I think everything is assembled as it should be but I have some questions. Book says to install commutator ring w/slot side facing up. This does mean the slot towards end cover, right? Book also says to install commutator w/drive link nose in smallest elongated hole of commutator. There is only one elongated hole & cover won't line up if it's in the other hole. Drive link moves at an angle so it has to be in the long hole to work. Is this correct? Even w/the manual things can be difficult for a first timer. I did put fluid in the pump & turned it a few times & it seems fine but I want to make sure before installing pump on tractor which I hope is easier than taking it off. I did move the dash back a few inches to get at the fittings from the top which seems the only way to do that. Thanks for your continuing help w/this.

Dennis

Dennis, I would leave the bolts as they are. Sounds like the rest is assembled OK. Reinstall the pump and make sure to have lock washers on the 4, 12 pt bolts that hold the pump in place. Without the washers on some tractors the bolts can go to far in the pump and damage it. We will be gone this weekend, hope everything works good, Rod.

Rod

The pump is back on the tractor & everything seems to be good. I drove the tractor around the yard & checked for leaks & found one tiny one on a fitting but tightened it a little more & it's ok now. I did replace the o-ring seals on the fittings because this was too much work to not spend a few more bucks to replace them. Steering is just like before so maybe I got it right. The 4 12 pt. bolts that bolt the cover on do have the lock washers. Thanks for all your help w/this Rod. Have a great weekend.

Dennis