1175 air conditioning

The air conditioning unit on our 1175 hasn't worked since we bought it. Any ideas on what it would cost to get it working again? The fan also howls like crazy so I can't even blow hot air in my face LOL Don

Most of the good AC shops will want to replace the evaporator, and condenser to equipment that is designed for the 134 gas. They are finer and do work better, but need cleaned out daily in dusty conditions. With a new compressor, valves, dryer, and blower I would think you would be pushing $1000. When I redid my 970 a couple years ago I replaced all the pulleys and mounts with 90 series parts to get rid of that long flopping belt. It was quite a job, and I had the crank pulley rebalanced to the same as the 970 was to be sure the different balance would not damage the engine.

If its like on my 2090 the compressor clutch shares a common power circuit with the fan motor. I'd start by getting the fan right. Then troubleshoot the system. Power to clutches, power to pressure switch. Then its pretty much plug and play. I've spent 1500 on them and spent 50 cents.

Until I stuck a manifold gauge on the system and pulled a vacuum, if possible, it’s very hard Speculating on the cost of an A/C job without knowing the condition of the parts in question, like compressor, hoses, receiver dryer, condenser, evaporator and expansion valve.

If you need to Have a knowledgeable A/C man look at the system to see if everything is there first.

If the compressor is the same as a 1370, which I think they are, those compressor used a Schrader valve. (NAPA sells a 90* adapter for the R12 to R134A conversion; High and Low side)

I can’t think of there true name right now, but they had a tendency to leak with age.

Case offered them at a reasonable price about 2 years ago. I know this because I bought them for my 1370.

Hoses can be made reasonably using a A/C hose crimping tool, buy the pieces you need (*cold hose dot com) or have a hose made (*same place)

As far has cost… it depends on what is there and its condition. I have seen systems put into service for as little as $50 and as high as $1000 plus depending on what is needed.

Normally a new receiver dryer is a must along with an oring conditioner for converting from an R12 to R134A system. (A conversion kit used to be on the market; use NAPA adapters)

If you have to replace the compressor I suggest flushing the entire system and replacing the receiver dryer. That way you can start out with a proper oil charge. A flush kit isn’t that high priced and the flush cleaner can be bought at nat auto dot com

Its been a while but I think an 8oz ester oil is the proper amount for a “COMPLETE” conversion that would include a compressor change to R134A for a case tractor of your size, but you will need to verify that number. Make sure the compressor has oil in it before you start the system.

If you are lucky it might just be that old piston pump type compressor (pretty sure they all used it) Might as well get a new rotary type (off newer car or aftermarket) and new reciever dryer. Probably be best to at least have an expert ag guy look at it . Preferably NOT the same person who will be doing the work. You need an honest assessment.

The AC system is very tough to give a estimate because you are working with components spread throughout the tractor and you have no idea what you have till you tear into it. Even that fan problem can be costly, you by a motor, fix some wires and switches, clean the top of the cab and AC and heater cores, reseal the top of the cab with special sealing bolts and a new gasket and cab filter ,you spend $250 for just those parts and will kill a half day. With in town labor pushing $100 hr, you spend a lot and have not touched the AC yet. Compressors, hoses, switches, valves and cores and the bill can get really ugly if it is all fixed, we have to remember these systems are 40 yrs old and most have seen a lot of neglect. Not trying to detour anyone, just what you to know. With a system not working and has not for some time you can get lucky and spend little or have one that would chew up the best part of a couple grand. You just don't know till you are in them. Rod.

Don, In the post just below to Lamont, I revealed my secret to dealing with no air conditioner on my 1170. I convert the cab to an open ROPS during the summer.

During the spring and fall, I don't remember ever needing any heat in the cab. I remember once the night after Thanksgiving Day, I chiseled all night because a cold wave had hit and the ground would soon become froze. The cab fan did not work when I got the tractor and I never got the urge to fix it. The engine and tranny heat always seemed to keep the tight cab comfortable.

Now that I am 75, dust is becoming a problem for both health and comfort reasons. I have a newer tractor with AC and more ponies and 18speed PS so the 1170 is semi-retired but definitely no junk man allowed on the property. LOL Its a keeper.