Case 1370, Preload pinion shaft.

I will reassemble my Case 1370 with a "new" power shift carrier.
This will affect the preload of the bearings on the pinion shaft.

I do not want to remove the differantial and everything so I will try to do like this:

I have spent a few hours now to assembling it exactly as it sat before, ( and you do it , you should not think about anything else accordning to the Repair Manual ) . But then I will of course replace a part that makes the distance between the bearings can potentially affected.
The first picture here shows how the nut will sit. Before I pulled as far as I pulled short pieces at a time and felt thoroughly after if I could feel any looseness , by prying the shaft against me , and push back . I also tried to poke on the rolls in the bearings to know when they started to impose themselves .
After swerving back and forth several times and also mounted loose layer and sat there again , I concluded each time that when I had pulled nut as far as the second picture, I could not feel any looseness when I pushed the shaft forward. The shaft is 49 mm in diameter, the track can be seen in the shaft is 8 mm wide . I filed a mark straight over the nut , you look in the lower right corner to the mark on the first image is aligned with the edge of the groove in the shaft. This is where the nut should be in this case , as it sat in place.
After many repeated tests , I concluded that the gap could be felt when mark sat at the top corner on the track, then when the nut was tightened 8 mm less ( or 1/19 laps less and with a pitch of about 1.3 mm / rev , therefore 0,07 mm less. )
I also found repeatedly that the gap disappears when it is taken 6.5-7 mm tightening the nut. ( What you see on the second picture)
So then , I will mount the new power shift carrier. Besides , all parts are the same .
Then , I look up this situation where the gap disappears , and then drag 6.5mm longer .
It ought to work?
Since that I have been up to the gap ends at precisely this point several times, with a margin of error of 0.5 mm ( of 153 mm circumference) so should surely this method good enough ?
If I do then the same procedure at the new reassembly and manage to find the point where the gap disappears repeatedly then it should well be right ?
I have pried shaft forward and even knocked it a bit.
But one thing I'm thinking a little on .. because it's an old tractor from 1976 that has gone over 5000 hours , one can expect that the roller bearing is a bit worn so that it would possibly tighten a little more than it was when you took it apart ?
Since there is a little gap between the pinion and the differential, would it be possible to measure the rolling torque for this 1/50 revolution? And what should it be?

Henrik, I have taken many of these tractors apart and one thing I can tell you is (usually) the inner nut is turned on the shaft somewhere between 12 and 13 turns when the bearings are preloaded. This figure is just from my experiences, but it should at least get you somewhere close. In the picture you are showing the nut is not even on the shaft all the way. Rod.

On the picture the nut is on all the way.
From the end of the shaft to the outer side of the nut it is 12,1 mm. On the picture it is on the exact spot it was from the beginning.
Here is another picture from the side.

How accurate must the preload be? Should it be so tight that I need more than 1,5-3 Nm to make the shat turn? I think the preload was looser than this from the beginning, maybe beacause the tractor is old? Maybe I shouls preload it alittle bit more?

How much should I turn the nut after the glap in the bearing is gone?
As it was, it was turned just 7 mm (of the shaft circumference) after the glap disappeared.

On the picture the nut is on all the way.
From the end of the shaft to the outer side of the nut it is 12,1 mm. On the picture it is on the exact spot it was from the beginning.

Here is another picture from the side.

How accurate must the preload be? Should it be so tight that I need more than 1,5-3 Nm to make the shat turn? I think the preload was looser than this from the beginning, maybe beacause the tractor is old? Maybe I shouls preload it alittle bit more?

How much should I turn the nut after the glap in the bearing is gone?

As it was, it was turned just 7 mm (of the shaft circumference) after the glap disappeared.

Yes from that angle the picture looks much better. If you have all the endplay removed I would turn the nut maybe a 1/16 of a turn tighter and call it good enough. You should still be able to twist the pinion shaft easily a little in both directions after that, if it seems tighter back it off a bit. Like you said when it was taken apart it was more than likely looser than that. Rod.

Ok, thanks!

What effect will the second nut have on the preload? Shall I turn this nut hard? Or just lock it with my fingers?

Turn it so it is good and tight, then bend the tabs on washer, Rod.

Ok, thanks.
I am just about to do that.

(I also lift one wheel up today, and turned it. I can also turn the wheel by turning the pinion shaft with a torque wrench. Why is it not so that I can set the nut by using a torque wrench without taking the differantial out? Everything seems to turn around pretty easy.)

I also tested to turn the shaft with a torque wrench that little bit before the differentail starts to turn. It now seems to be about 2-3 Nm when the nut is turned about 15 mm after the glap was gone. (1/16 of a turn = 10mm.) If I turn the nut 21 mm after the glap, it is to much, over 5 Nm. So I guess I have found the right position for the nut now.