1070 water in oil revisited

RGMartin

Well-known Member
Seems lots of folks are having water in oil issues.

Two questions if anyone can help...

Anyone use a cylinder hone to clean the surfaces where the O-rings sit? Not to remove material, just clean the roughness off(400 grit). These aren't pretty, but the O-rings looked OK. Plan is to clean up, and smooth with epoxy(unless there is something better).



Second, found a big casting flaw in the tunnel that feeds water back the side of the engine. Anybody know how thick the iron is there? It is deeper than the picture suggests, maybe 3/16" or a little better. Thought I would clean it up and epoxy it.



The machine shop checked the heads out as fine.

We pulled the pan and pressurized it, no coolant on the cardboard under it after 2 days.

Ran it with manifolds removed, no bubbles in the coolant right up to boiling. Head gaskets looked good, though the rear one didn't seem as tight as the front 2.

An acre of plowing would put over a quart or coolant in the pan.

I have another block but don't want to change it unless I have to(it might not be any better.
 
You won't see any bubbles unless the coolant level is up in the neck. A crack in a sleeve is very difficult to see sometimes.
 
Food for thought.Remember the shuttle that had
blown up due to cold weather shrinking o rings an
not sealing properly.Also it was not uncommon to
see antifreeze seap out of trucks in extreme cold
weather parked out side over week ends where i
worked.So could some of leaks in tractors be due to
eextreme cold this winter? No longer farm but we
used Bars leak in all tractors including new ones
over years.Course you cant use that with tractors
having filters.
 
(quoted from post at 16:13:33 02/25/14) You won't see any bubbles unless the coolant level is up in the neck. A crack in a sleeve is very difficult to see sometimes.


Watching the water manifold ports...

I tired Barrs Leak before tearing it down too. Seemed to make it leak faster... maybe my imagination and great desire for that to cure it.

In any Case, the parts are on order(Sleeves/pistons, rods, mains, injectors), and with any luck she will be back in service plowing in a few weeks.
 
If that block is pitted and corroded the only cure is to get the blocked machined out and repair sleeves pressed in otherwise new O-rings will not help.Thats if I"m reading and looking corectly at your post.
 
(quoted from post at 17:18:32 02/25/14) If that block is pitted and corroded the only cure is to get the blocked machined out and repair sleeves pressed in otherwise new O-rings will not help.Thats if I"m reading and looking corectly at your post.


Not pitted, just not smooth ether.
 
I have fixed many pitted & "tracked" lower sleeve bores w/ J.B. Weld. Must be clean, then J.B.W. applied, then honed down when dry. Never had a failure. A long time CASE mechanic, whom I had much respect for, taught me that fix.
 
My guess is there is a pin hole in a sleeve. Did you happen to
turn the engine over... Say a 1/4 turn at a time while the
cooling system was pressurized? To expose the hole.
 
I did, 5 sleeves looked reasonably good, #6 had some ugliness going on, but still couldn't see any holes.
 
I just did a 1070, I knew about where the sleeve had a hole in
it and I still couldn't find it. The tractor would push water in the
pan unless the radiator cap was loose. Just a thought. I would
pass on using the hone. A flap wheel on a die grinder works
well.
a147003.jpg
 
Rick I think you have a good plan. I have had sleeves installed
in the bottoms but they were ugly. IIf it were my tractor I would
save the bucks and do the same thing. A flap wheel like Eric
shown or flex hone clean those bottoms. Also 3 M makes a
flex wheel called a paint and rust remover that works great.
The key is to get the low spots clean so the JB adheres well.
After the bore is nice and shiney and the low spots are
obvious, I get down there with a small toothbrush size wire
brush and scrub and degrease those lower areas well. Rod.
 
Usually if you tap around the top of the sleeve with a small hammer, after they are out, a chunk of the sleeve will break off. I have had them magnafluxed and the cracks show up around the top.
 
If it is cracked around the top of the sleeve you'll have to recut the top flange area to true it up or it will crack the next one. I recut and shim every time I replace sleeves.
 
I have used a cylinder hone, but just a glaze breaker on the bad ones, clean with brake parts cleaner and inspect, when I am satisfied that they are clean I have been installing sleeves with Ultra-Copper silicone, it's a sealer and lube, have used it for quite a few sets now and never a leak, have some out there for over 10 years. One thing I ALWAYS do is install the o-rings on the sleeves and take a straight edge and make sure they extent far enough or are large enough to seal, and check them for being uniform all the way around, learned that lesson the hard way. If I use aftermarket parts I always go to a dealer and get genuine 0-rings, they are usually a little more generous in size. Just what works for me.
 
I bought a bunch of those 3m discs after I found a deal on them. They didn't strip paint as well as I would have hoped for as much as they cost.
 
I once knew a man that would cleanup a bad area with a hone but He would only make a couple of turns with the hone.

Over-all that's pretty iffy thing to do, the chance of removing to much metal is pretty great

I would use scotch-brite or a fine bristle brush or a fine flap wheel like Agriking suggested
 

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