That 1930 Case L - still not running

I posted a few weeks back, and couldn"t get even a pop out of this thing. Checked out all your suggestions and did get some things straightened out. Re-adjusted the timing. Checked to see that there was gasoline actually coming out of the carburetor drain valve when I opened it. Got a few loud pops somewhere along the way. Now with everything gone over a time or two it still won"t go. I sometimes get a small puff of smoke from the exhaust, but when I keep trying the cranking, that stops and it just sits there looking stupid (with me feeling stupid). Anybody got a list of things to check one at a time to fix this. Its too big to be a lawn ornament.

I don't know how to open up the e-mail on this forum, so if anybody wants yo email with the magical answer, [email protected] will do it. No loud giggles or guffaws please.

I am sorry not to have an answer for you, but being a wrench junkie,I am interested in the red wrench hanging on the wall.Can you elaborate?

Any chance you have another tractor available to start it via the belt pulley? Mag set right? Have you had it running AT ALL since you've finished the restoration?

Hello Steve,
I would hook a chain to her and pull her with another tractor,put her in 2nd or 3rd gear and once you get her moving put the clutch in,,,you know! Just be careful. She might be just a little ornary

Chuck,isnt that a wrench for the axle nuts on "L" and "LA" ? I have one

Nope, haven't been able to get it started since I thought I had it finished about 6 weeks ago. I have been thinking of hooking it to my Ferguson TO-20 for which I have a belt pulley attachment that I've never tried using. Advantages or disadvantages over just hooking a chain to it and pulling it down the lane as suggested below?

I thought the magneto was set OK, but I am now wondering if, despite its just being rebuilt, maybe there isn't a hot enough spark. How to check?

Yep, its a Case wrench for the axle hub nuts both front and rear. They show up on e-bay from time to time, which is where I got that one. Was real handy during the restoration. Now I just keep thinking of beating it on the tractor. I don't know if the wrench will fit both the L and the C or others.

If you belt it to another tractor you can check for spark while it is turning over and make sure it has oil pressure.

Steve ,
Just a shot in the dark .... but on my LA .. the KILL lever on the mag .. it RUNS when the lever is DOWN .. and kills the tractor when up .. by the picture it looks UP ... now may-be thats the way yours is ...
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By the way .... NICE restore pictures .. like the way you did the FINE details ..
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........ mark
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I have a wrench like you have ... not painted

Magneto spark should jump almost i/2 inch if held that far away from engine block. It should be blue spark. If it is only yellow it is weak.Also i would turn off gasoline supply --remove plugs an check gap-have them dry an than crank tractor couple turns to clear out old gas .Than turn on gas-pull choke an pull through until each piston has fired an than open chokee halfway an you should get it startsd.Pulling would be good idea.That would keep you from getting arm broken as while i have cranked sc an dc many times i sure dont think a kickback on crank ow a l would be very healthy for arms!!

steve give me a call II have a 1929 thanks Randall 517 605 3406

Steve, I did not read, or do not remember your previous post so I am going to make you a step by step as I would do it, and you make the calls from there. I agree with the belting a fresh tractor, with another operator if at all possible. Cranking a big tractor that already has hard starting problems makes life crappy.

1. Take your air cleaner lower box off until you get it running. I just finished an la that had enough stuff in the air intake to fill a pickup truck.

2. Remove #1 plug, check that your impulse is tripping when the piston is all the way up and heading over center with a zip tie in the hole, AND that it is the compression stroke.

3. Are your wires wired the correct DIRECTION OF ROTATION? I do this for a living and still have done it wrong more than I care to share.

4. Have you checked spark as suggested? The auto store spark tester will not cut it. For future projects go to an echo dealer and tell him you would like to order one of his inline spark testers like he uses in the shop. It is adjustable, has a clear window for the spark and will allow operation while it is installed.

5. If you have all these things in order where you feel good about them, belt that sucker up and let it run on the belt a while. I am going to get dogged about this, but if you still aint getting anything, use some carburetor cleaner in where your carb draws from the oil box and see if it will fire. The tractor will run on it and it is no more harmful than a bottle of gas, just easier to manage.

If you don"t get it, repost and ill give you my cell if you would like.

a few weeks ago w/ my 930 same type of problems , rebuilt carb new points cap rotor wires plugs etc.i pulled valve covers to check valves working. it was crazy i am not a mechanic by any means just telling what my mechanic did. it now runs perfect. i am sure it won't apply , but i was like you, i was ready to try anything. 1st. i didn't know my carb had a solenoid to limit gas . it was stuck closed .with that fixed still had problems. 2nd then wires burnt. i rewired them. 3rd, it was getting spark but not all the time . he emery boarded the points started right up i couldn't believe it points were only few weeks old i't was a simple fix don't give up good luck john

My bet is on a timing or mag issue that's causing your troubles. I just helped a fella that was ready to send his Ford to the scrapper for acting that way. I got the timing right for him and she fired right up.

Can't help but notice that nice fuel bowl set-up for dual fuel. Where did you find it? I need one for my 38 L.

pull it ,, like ANDE Said ,,CASE tractors like to be pulled to start , ESPECIALLY when they ar4e being REURRECTED after being dead serveral yrs.. ,..

Steve, I had a similar experience with a Case LA. I had to adjust the coupler between the magneto drive shaft and the magneto. Then I found that there are two keyways on that shaft for the woodruff key. Was I 180 degees off with my coupler? Don't know but I kept adjusting the coupler until it fired up. ---Derrol in Texas---

I don't have anything to add to the good suggestions already given, but wanted to say nice job on bringing that L back to life. She's a beauty. Don

Brian, I can't remember which place I bought it from. There is one listed on this site, under Case L "Sediment Bowl Assembly, Dual Tank". Its a bit pricey, but most of them are. If you type in that same phrase in Google search, you'll get a dozen or more references to that one and others. I have to say that I am not sure yet of how exactly its supposed to work. Connected as you can see in my photo, if I turn the handle all the way out (counter clockwise)then all fuel is turned off. If I turn it in (clockwise) about 2 turns, fuel fills the bowl and is available at the left hand outlet. I don't know how it would work if I had kerosene in the large compartment of the tank and gasoline in the small. Steve

Randall, Thanks, I will give you a call, but I've got to be away a few days and will do it when I get back. Steve

Remove plugs an eighter have a good ground on one or remove plug wire an hold close to block an watch for spark while some one cranks it.Might want to use gloves while holding wire. Also you should hear impulse click same time spark happens.