TrevorB

Member
I got a case 730 in the summer and only just started working. The owner said that it had a head gasket leak. How hard would that be to fix? It is in good shape and it has been repainted awhile ago it had sat for 7-8 years inside a weather proof shed.
I'm also not 100% on how to drive it because its a case-o-matic.
 
depends on your abilities .....search archives to learn how to drive case o mtic,, lots of info there for even the novice,, now the head gasket problem ,.,. it could be a cracked head ,..there are ways to determine that also ,,perhaps others will chime in and take time with step by step ,,, But for most part by searching archives i learn GREAT stored knowledge that is 15 yrs old .... if it were mine ,after determining no water in oil . i would start it , and add bars leak if i suspect a blown head gasket ... but it will only buy you time ...
 
Do you know if the leak is to the outside or inside of the engine? Drain a little oil out of the bottom of the pan to see if there is antifreeze in there. They sell a 'block sealer' at auto parts stores. It works with water. You will have to remove the antifreeze until the treatment is complete. If the leak is pretty big the sealer may not work. It might be worth a try before you pull off the head.
 
To further elaborate on my post up on TT, fill the radiator to the top of the rad. neck. Start the tractor and let it warm up at an idle. Observ the exaust, looking for white exaust, and misfiring cyls. let it continue to warm up until the thermostat opens. You will know when it does, becdause a little coolant will overflow. Re fill to top and watch for air bubbles and coolant continuing to overflow. If this is the case the combustion ring in the head gasket is blown, or you have a cracked head, cracked sleeve, or a blown through power cell, and the head needs removing for further inspection. If you DO NOT have bubbles at this point, perhaps a coolant sealer might help, but as said a temperary fix. If coolant is in the pan, tear it down and look for bad head gasket or bad o-rings on the bottoms of the sleeves. If this is a "high tin 730" the rad. neck is very long and you can't see into the top radiator tank. That is why I said to fill to the top of the neck.
Loren
 
yes there was coolant in the oil we drained it.. and the oil had not been changed for i awhile it was pretty thick
a106973.jpg
 
Since you confirmed coolant in pan, pull the intake and exaust manifolds. Start the tractor and watch the exaust ports to isolate which cylinder or cylinders are misfiring. If they all fire good, I believe you have an O-ring problem with a sleeve or electrolisis in a sleeve. Pin holes show up on the side of the sleeves on the thrust side during the power stroke below the ring travel point.
Loren
 
The tractor started pretty easy.. filled the rad up with water. and got rad sealant but the rad was dry when we took the diesel outta the engine because we used diesel to clean out the oil in the crankcase. and we got more out of it that we put in to the coolant must be leaking
 
Drain the coolant first. HeHe There are no hidden bolts on them, like on the 188s. Just a note,when reinstalling the heads though.
Set both heads on and put a straight edge on the intake/exaust ports to align the heads, before torqueing them down. This ensures that the manifolds will seal properly.
Loren
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top