2 piece rear crank seal

1948 mm · Feb 6, 2013

I posted this question on the minneapolis board on January 19th and never got a reply so I am gonna try the case side since you guys are the most helpful! I am installing a new fel-pro rear crank seal in a MM U and i have a few questions. I have installed the new felt seal in the block and in the retainer. Should I trim both pieces flush or leave an 1/8 inch protrude on each? I was kinda thinking about trimming both seals flush and adding a bit of right stuff between the two to seal the gap. The manual says I should also shim the seal retainer with gaskets until the retainer protrudes .005" beyond the surface of the block when torqued, this just doesen"t seem right to me. The IT manual I have is old and I am wondering if it is written for the old rope type seal that I am replacing so it wouldn"t spin in the block. I was thinking I should shim the rear retainer to be flush with the block when torqued. Thanks

1031D · Feb 7, 2013

When I rebuilt our 1953 UTS LP I got a "new" style felt packing type seal, almost like 2 pieces of heavy felt with a plastic core. I did not trim anything off. I first shimmed the seal block to fit flush with the bottom of the block, then took it apart, installed the seal and torqued it. It does not leak. Our Allis WC is similar but the seal is installed next to the main bearings in the block and cap.

2 piece rear crank seal

1948 mm

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1031D

Well-known Member

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