Case-O-Matic Problem

I have a Case 530CK with loader, i know it is a construction model, but it has the same Case-O-Matic that runs in the farm models.
I bought this tractor and it would not move, i replaced everything that involved the C-O-M, now the tractor moves but it doesn't wont to stop.
When i push in the clutch it's like it doesn't disengage it enough and i half to drop the loader bucket and then pop it out of gear.
I'm sure something needs to be adjusted but I'm not sure what?
If anyone has any ideas please let me know
Thanks
 
does the clutch pressure drop to zero when you depress the clutch pedal? check to see if the clutch spool is going into full release and full enguagement detents, to check this unhook the linkage ball joint and move the spool by hand then move the pedal by hand in the corasponding position and see if the bolt lines up, do this in pedal up/pedal down positions, hope this makes sence ,, disregaurd if you have already done this, cnt
 
I ask the Case dealer and they said to use regular hydraulic oil so i did.
What kind of oil should i use? and how much does it take?
What would be a good way to clean out all of the old hydraulic fluid in the lines? could i use low air presser? or would that cause more problems, i don't feel like removing them all again :(.
I'll check the valve / linkage and see what it looks like.
I haven't had much time to inspect anything, i just got it moving when it was getting dark, so i just parked it and called it a night. I will look into it more tomorrow.
Thanks for the info
 

I have seen people not take the jackscrews out that hold the piston tight against the drive plates to help installing the drive plates in the drum. That causes exactly what you describe and messes up the clutch piston as well. If the clutch pressure drops to converter pressure when the inching pedal is pushed , you have a problem with the piston not releasing for some reason as the converter pressure is used to push the clutch piston back.
 
Pink ATF is what was in it, but don't know which one specifically tho. Some use HyTran from case. I've heard that the HyTran can cause some of the same problems if it's cold tho.
 
i have a 1960 530COM and i use the universal tractor transmission hydraulic fluid from tractor supply. it's like a cross between hydraulic oil and motor oil. works good but if you start the tractor in the winter sometime it won't move with any power till it warms up a little or you lock the torque convertor.
 
I did use the hydraulic / transmission fluid, I checked it today and it's milky. I don't know how the water could of gotten in? can i use low air presser to clean out all of the lines?
I will check the linkage adjustment today and see what it looks like.
But I'm guessing it's going to be the water mixed in the fluid that is causing problems.
Thanks for everyone's help, I will post more later when i get more work done.
 
Are you sure that the control valve is working? This is above and just forward of the "clutch" pedal. One spool, outboard one iirc, dumps the hyd pressure and stops power flow. The other one is for lock-up to direct drive. When pedal is depressed the C-o-M press gauge will show drop in pressure. I was into mine some years ago, don't remember exactly why. If someone else was there, that could have been the whole problem. Check parts book for assembly.
 

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