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711b needs more power for pulling

D

Dodgeit

Member
How much power would you gain by doing the following?

Remove Power steering belt.

Remove Radiator fan and replace with electric.

Any other tips? Don't need tear it down tips. That's a winter project.
 
Don't know about power steering, but the fan uses 5-15 hp depending on what rpm's your running. You could gain a bit by matching all the manifold joints so they have no ridges where they match up, especially at the head. Depending on how bad they are you could get 10 hp there. Also you could remove the air cleaner and add a bell at the intake. If you look at any race engine they most always have a bell on the intake to help eliminate the turbulance which restricts flow. These things all make more difference at higher rpms than at stock rpms.
 
Also remember a cool engine produces more hp than a hot one. Run your tractor just enough to get it to the track. A hot engine, even a small one like your 700 will loose several hp on the second run on a dyno. My 930 that would put out 150 hp would loose 8-10 hp as it got hot.
 
That won't make much difference on power. How about putting it on a diet and go to a lighter class? That would cost less and be easier than what you are talking about.
 
(quoted from post at 11:40:56 08/02/12) That won't make much difference on power. How about putting it on a diet and go to a lighter class? That would cost less and be easier than what you are talking about.
Click to expand...

Did that already. Classes are speed limited, and she didn't do well in the lighter classes. She's 6k with no weights hanging. We pull 7 - 8.5k and doing well in those classes.

Using 3rd gear 7.5k shes winning by a good margin (20+ feet), but stalls out before spinning out (271ft). So this tells me I'm hooked as well as possible, just need to be proactive, to keep it that way. :D Besides there's 29 ft left to go. Who doesn't want to do a full pull even if you won the class with a shorter distance?

Thanks for the advise tho
 
(quoted from post at 11:11:03 08/02/12) Don't know about power steering, but the fan uses 5-15 hp depending on what rpm's your running. You could gain a bit by matching all the manifold joints so they have no ridges where they match up, especially at the head. Depending on how bad they are you could get 10 hp there. Also you could remove the air cleaner and add a bell at the intake. If you look at any race engine they most always have a bell on the intake to help eliminate the turbulance which restricts flow. These things all make more difference at higher rpms than at stock rpms.
Click to expand...

Stock at 1660 rpms +10%, so some of the things you mention don't help much but don't hurt either. The heads are coming off over the winter just to see what's really there, so that I know. Port matching is self evident to me at that time. I just looking for 10-15hp till the season is over.

Thanks for your input.
 
(quoted from post at 14:01:29 08/02/12) Put a 284 cid out of a 830 in it. Several around and call it a 830. No difference in tractors!
Click to expand...

Well, my problem is, here in SC there is not too many Case row crop tractors period. So I have trouble finding things like motors, wheel weights and anything else for that matter. Thought I had a line on an 830 engine with 301 cubes in Ohio, but the guy decided not to sell.
 
1 Strech the hood and put a 504 in there.
2 Look for a 336 out of an 870
3 Make your own 336 out of a 284 . Use 504 case sleeves and pistons from a 504 Minnie. Use intake from a 400 diesel along with a carb from a 4020 or some other gutless gas hog. Have someone file on the cam. (IH grind) you can get 100 plus hp pretty easy.
4 Run 16.9 38s if allowed.
 
(quoted from post at 16:26:50 08/02/12) 1 Strech the hood and put a 504 in there.
2 Look for a 336 out of an 870
3 Make your own 336 out of a 284 . Use 504 case sleeves and pistons from a 504 Minnie. Use intake from a 400 diesel along with a carb from a 4020 or some other gutless gas hog. Have someone file on the cam. (IH grind) you can get 100 plus hp pretty easy.
4 Run 16.9 38s if allowed.
Click to expand...

Already have the 16.9 x 38s on it. I've noticed the Diesel exhaust manifold looks like it may have better flow than the LP manifold on it. Whats the deal with the intake for a diesel?

To keep the 336 looking like it belongs in a 711b. What would have to be done.
 
If you plan on pulling the heads this winter, I would do a little port work on it with a good valve job a 3way valve job would be enough. If you plan on port work do a lot of research before you do anything, if you send them out go to a good shop that knows what they are doing. If you have the time and money send your cam in to get it ground, i have had good luck with bullet cams. Good heads and a cam that will keep up with them should make a good improvement.
 
You should be able to make that tractor pull at 6000. We pull one at 5500 with 400 cast centers and no hydraulic housing. You are right these tractors pull better in heavier classes. It is easier to build a 284 to 336 than find a 301 gas. If your rules will allow you may want to think about a 930 gas built to a 504 as the weight would not be a lot more. Look for a late 930 that has a 401 make it 504 and use 830 heads. The only machining would be on the bores on the block, 504 case sleeves you can by used along with the Minnie pistons. Then you can pull up to 12000 in mph classes. Look back a page or two at the ugly Case with the six cylinder direct injection. We also have the big 400 gas and diesel Case-o-matics. Use you imagination
 
What classes and what gear you pulling in. I pulled my 801 in 8500lb in 2nd and 9500 in 1st with 18.4-38's on it. All the power I needed. Also same with my 702B. My 812 gaser has the power but not the traction.
caseman-d
 
There is no way to hide a 336 from anyone who knows cases. The pump is on the wrong side and the manifolds are one on each side.
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:24 08/02/12) What classes and what gear you pulling in. I pulled my 801 in 8500lb in 2nd and 9500 in 1st with 18.4-38's on it. All the power I needed. Also same with my 702B. My 812 gaser has the power but not the traction.
caseman-d
Click to expand...

7k-3rd, 7.5k-3rd, 8k-1st, 8.5k-1st. Need to use 2nd gear for 8 and 8.5 since I spin out in those classes. Going to try 8, 8.5 and 9.5 this weekend, see how it goes.

Since I motor out in 3rd gear 7.5 class, I just feel like a bit more hp will put me down the track farther in the higher gears.
 
(quoted from post at 19:24:42 08/02/12) You should be able to make that tractor pull at 6000. We pull one at 5500 with 400 cast centers and no hydraulic housing. You are right these tractors pull better in heavier classes. It is easier to build a 284 to 336 than find a 301 gas. If your rules will allow you may want to think about a 930 gas built to a 504 as the weight would not be a lot more. Look for a late 930 that has a 401 make it 504 and use 830 heads. The only machining would be on the bores on the block, 504 case sleeves you can by used along with the Minnie pistons. Then you can pull up to 12000 in mph classes. Look back a page or two at the ugly Case with the six cylinder direct injection. We also have the big 400 gas and diesel Case-o-matics. Use you imagination
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise, but I want to stay 4 cylinder, since I'm already giving the 6 cylinder tractors fits. with stock cubic inches.
 
(quoted from post at 19:24:42 08/02/12) You should be able to make that tractor pull at 6000. We pull one at 5500 with 400 cast centers and no hydraulic housing. You are right these tractors pull better in heavier classes. It is easier to build a 284 to 336 than find a 301 gas. If your rules will allow you may want to think about a 930 gas built to a 504 as the weight would not be a lot more. Look for a late 930 that has a 401 make it 504 and use 830 heads. The only machining would be on the bores on the block, 504 case sleeves you can by used along with the Minnie pistons. Then you can pull up to 12000 in mph classes. Look back a page or two at the ugly Case with the six cylinder direct injection. We also have the big 400 gas and diesel Case-o-matics. Use you imagination
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise, but I want to stay 4 cylinder, since I'm already giving the 6 cylinder tractors fits. with stock cubic inches.
 
the things that make power are cubic inches and enough air flow with enough of a carb feed it along with some compression and good ignition the rest is just chicken feed
 
(quoted from post at 17:00:12 08/03/12) the things that make power are cubic inches and enough air flow with enough of a carb feed it along with some compression and good ignition the rest is just chicken feed
Click to expand...

Which carb would you recommend?
 
1. get your max rpm by the rules
2. put a cool can on your fuel line
3. gut your air cleaner leave the 1/4 of the steel mesh fill with dry ice. cold air and fuel is your friend.
4. get some lp heads mill them down.
5. some how ice down your fuel tank between rounds.
6. go to sae 30 motor oil in trans. loose power in thick gear lube . especialy wth the late fall/winter pulls
 
(quoted from post at 21:46:37 08/07/12)
1. get your max rpm by the rules
2. put a cool can on your fuel line
3. gut your air cleaner leave the 1/4 of the steel mesh fill with dry ice. cold air and fuel is your friend.
4. get some lp heads mill them down.
5. some how ice down your fuel tank between rounds.
6. go to sae 30 motor oil in trans. loose power in thick gear lube . especialy wth the late fall/winter pulls
Click to expand...
b:bf45fe1f40]

Already have the govenor set for max. rpm's the rules allow.

Already have the heads on the tractor. Stock height though.

Not enough time between rounds to do anything but change weight and adjust hitch. Brush pulls with maybe 6-7 tractors in class.

Will try the SAE 30wt when I do the tear down this winter. Cold weather not a factor here in SC. No pulls after mid of Oct.

Thanks for the pointers.[/b:bf45fe1f40]
 
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