Case 430/440 Leaking brake shaft seal

Recently aquired a 1966 Case 440 with the model 22 loader and backhoe. The brakes did not work at all. The clutch side I pulled apart and replaced the brake bands and springs and cleaned everything up. The left side now works great. The right side is leaking oil from the bottom drain hole of the brake cover. I assume bad seal. Has anybody done it or can confirm the part numbers I need of the seals? The two parts numbers I found of what I think I need are A49796 and 510828. Any tricks to doing this? I assume I need to drain down the oil to below the level of the output shaft. Does the plate just slide right off after removed the brake parts? Thanks.

You can limit the volume of gear lube that you'll need to drain by driving the the rear tire on the side you are repairing up on a 4x4 block (or something similar to tip the tractor in the opposite direction). You have the correct Case part numbers and the seal crosses to Timken 471341.

Some additional information from the archives is http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=case&th=179142

It is a fairly easy repair, but the trick is getting the new seal over the splined shaft w/o cutting it or turning the lip inside out. I found a spray can (PAM spray on cooking oil) that is exactly the same diameter as the shaft. I put the spray can over the shaft (ends cut off) and pushed the seal into place pretty easily. Then simply reinstalled a new disk and now the brakes are great. Good Luck! Don

To replace the seal you will need a sleeve.For the sleeve I use clear shipping tape about two inches wide. Make sure you cover the grove in the shaft with the tape. It is the grove that will roll the lip on the seal not the splines. I used stp to lube the tape. After the seal is in inspect to make sure you did not roll that lip. Don’t forget to remove the clear tape.

Thank you everyone for the insight! So after I pull off the brake cover and remove the brake discs, the plate that is on the side of the body of the tractor will just slide off and the seals are contained behind that? The picture here

http://cnh-b2b.servigistics.com/index.php/pvaimage/001CSIH/10709.gif

I believe I need part number 38 ( or timkin equivalant?) and number 37?

Then part number 28 , where the arrow points to 28 is the spline everyone is talking about wrapping or putting a sleeve over to keep from damaging seal when sliding on?

Also tipping the tractor up on its side is a great idea! How much oil do you think I will need to still remove to drop below that level?

Also I believe you said I can get part number 38 from timkin but I will have to get 37 from case?

Thanks everyone!

try LUCAS HUB SEAL at your local NAPA

Alright so finally today I got to putting the new seal in. I went to the supermarket and found the Pam can that was JUST larger than the seal and the seal slid over it with just a little snugness. I went back and cut both ends off the can and smoothed them out to make sure that there were no burs. The whole plate with the seal slid right on to about an inch from flush. Then it wouldn't move. I tapped lightly with the hammer, nothing. I used some 1/2 inch short bolt to see if I could ease the plate in but nothing. I tried to wiggle the pam can around to see if I could move the shaft into position or something but nothing worked. Finally I put the jack back under the tractor and lifted that wheel off of the 4x4 and spun the wheel around. That did it, the plate slid home easily after that. I guess the bearing must not have been lining up with the race on the plate. So now that its all back together, what type of rear end fluid can I use? People have said this will work just fine http://www.external_link/traveller-reg-renew-tractor-fluid-5-gal--8060038 Any one have an opinion on that? Also what do I put in the fill hole that is in front of the F N R lever? I think that is the transmission fluid? Thanks.