Case 300 Clutch

jasonbickel · May 30, 2011

I recently purchase a 300 triple range unit, runs good, however the clutch wouldn"t release. Split it and the clutch disc had fallen apart, couple of springs in the center of the disc spit out and the friction material was spit out in a couple of spots. Needless to say, the clutch disc is not repairable and I need a new one. Does anyone know where to get one from? Is it possible that a VAC clutch matches? Also need to get a new throwout bearing as well, bearing is good but the other end of it has worn away significantly about 1/8" or so, the spring was put in backwards.

Any input is appreciated. Thank you, jason

link to pics of the tractor:

http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb352/jasonbickel1980/case%20300%20tractor/

george md · May 30, 2011

Jason,

When you install the release bearing and
sleeve, it goes in what looks to be backwards.
The sleeve goes toward the clutch and the
bearing goes to the fork. Reason for this is
the shaft that the sleeve slides on is turning
all the time as it is your live hydraulic drive.

george

Joe (Wa) · May 31, 2011

VAC & 300 clutch plates are different size & configuration.

John Saeli should be able to provide the clutch parts. Spark ignition 300 standard duty single plate is Case p/n G11077, plate-9.25" dia, 10 spline-1.125" dia. Single plate clutch release bearing is Case p/n G10610.

Your pressure plate pic doesn't look quite right, maybe just camera angle? Can you post a head-on pic?

Release bearing mounts on the hydraulic pump drive shaft as in the pic. Spring behind the bearing is mounted small dia end aft as shown and tensions the bearing up against the pressure plate levers, bearing notch shown at 12 o'clock catches on a pressure plate lever. The pressure plate, release bearing, spring, and hyd pump shaft all rotate as one.

Joe

Saeli

Anonymous-0 · May 31, 2011

I have a used ceramic set us out of 211b if they will interchange. Jim

Joe Young · Jun 1, 2011

Hey Jason

First...It looks like you have a good helper for this project...

Second...It looks like you have a unique little 311 to restore. I'm looking forward to the pictures when your done with the restoration....

I just ordered rod/main bearings, a full gasket kit and a clutch kit from AgKits.com for my 312 restoration. Several of the items were drop shipped from different locations, but all arrived within 3 business days. The parts are first quality stuff (Clevite, Federal Mogul, etc)

The clutch kit includes the clutch disc, pressure plate and bearing.

While you have the tractor split be sure to install new seals, o-ring and gasket in the tach drive assembly in the rear of the bell housing. Joe (Wa) has some great pictures and details on the process <A HREF="http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?
bd=case&th=169466">here.</A> (Thanks again Joe (Wa)... your detailed explanations and pictures are very helpful).

jasonbickel · Jun 1, 2011

(reply to post at 00:16:27 05/31/11)

Head on pic of pressure plate added, believe to be correct

Throwout bearing was installed backwards as well as the spring. Bearing was worn way thin on the solid end of it:

Clutch disc was pretty torn up as well:

Did come across a website, www.hphparts.com that sells replacement parts and they have the clutch disc for $106 and the throwout bearing for $31. Did get ahold of a Sachs list of clutch dimensions for cars and there is a late 70s Buick application that has a 9 1/8" disc w/ the correct shaft dia and spline count. The disc (non-sachs) can be purchased at autozone for $25... half way tempted to buy one just to see if it will work. Don't think the 1/8" smaller diameter will matter much.

I'll contact Saeli as well.

Thank you all for your input, not sure if I will ever get to a complete restoration but at least I will enjoy it. I'll keep everyone updated on the progress.

Jason

VACLee · Jun 1, 2011

Most automotive disc will not work due to the hub being to thick. If you look at the original it is almost flat on one side. The automotive style will rub on the collar that drives the hydraulic pump and tach. You can machine them to clear but the springs don't hold up in the center very well either. The tractor disc is much stronger. The 200b, 300, and 300b are the same, but they also had an option for a double disc which is smaller in diameter. Lee

BarryfromIA · Jun 1, 2011

The center cushioning springs will tear the spring pockets apart and break after a full season off running a hay baler. We noticed some thing could be wrong when small pieces of steel were falling out of the slot in the clutch cover.

Joe (Wa) · Jun 2, 2011

Case release bearing G10610 is ~$100. I would be leary of a $30 bearing, especially greaseable. There is no access in the bell housing for greasing, you should use a sealed bearing.

Joe

jasonbickel · Jun 3, 2011

(quoted from post at 09:27:07 06/02/11) Case release bearing G10610 is ~$100. I would be leary of a $30 bearing, especially greaseable. There is no access in the bell housing for greasing, you should use a sealed bearing.

Joe

Purchased this from external_link, guess we'll find out. Agree that there is no way to grease so that option won't be a benefit.

Also, I did go ahead and order the automotive clutch and the tractor clutch to compare the two, will make a decision if it will work. If it does work I'll take a small finders fee :lol:

The guy had run a brush hog through some heavy timber and brush so I figure that's what did it in. Probably snagged a few stumps or rocks.

mEl · Jun 3, 2011

(quoted from post at 05:32:29 06/01/11) Hey Jason

First...It looks like you have a good helper for this project...

Second...It looks like you have a unique little 311 to restore. I'm looking forward to the pictures when your done with the restoration....

I just ordered rod/main bearings, a full gasket kit and a clutch kit from AgKits.com for my 312 restoration. Several of the items were drop shipped from different locations, but all arrived within 3 business days. The parts are first quality stuff (Clevite, Federal Mogul, etc)

The clutch kit includes the clutch disc, pressure plate and bearing.

While you have the tractor split be sure to install new seals, o-ring and gasket in the tach drive assembly in the rear of the bell housing. Joe (Wa) has some great pictures and details on the process <A HREF="http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?
bd=case&th=169466">here.</A> (Thanks again Joe (Wa)... your detailed explanations and pictures are very helpful).

Joe Young, Was the kit you ordered, a standard bore or the 3 7/16 overbore? Our suppliers no longer supply the big kit, just 3 3/8. Always trying to keep one step ahead on whats out there. mEl

Joe Young · Jun 4, 2011

mEl

I didn't order the full overhaul kit...just the bearings (rod and
mains) and the gasket kit. It appears they only offer the standard
bore kits on their website, but a call to them may prove otherwise.
I found them very helpful when I called to ask few questions. - Joe

jasonbickel · Jul 3, 2011

Update, I have the tractor back together. Ended up having to reuse the piece of the throwout bearing that was worn down. It did separate from the throwout bearing easily using a chisel and then just press back together with the vise.

Got a new intake/exhaust gasket installed, adjusted valves, replaced valve cover gasket. Runs excellent now.

Replaced rear crank seal since I had it apart. Replaced hydraulic pump seals as it was obviously leaking, not sure if it fixed the leak though as I have a drip from the bottom of the bell housing.

Changed out rear axle seals, they were leaking pretty good. Replaced gear oil.

Would like to see if I can find a match to the one good tire I have, it is a BF Goodrich Silvertown 13.6 x 28. If anyone has one that is about as good as the one that I have i am interested.

No restoration for now, will just put back together and enjoy for a while!

Case 300 Clutch

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