Case 1175 Problems?

rbenitez32

New User
I just bought a Case 1175. It runs well in all gears when its not pulling anything. Once I hook up a plow or some disks it wont run once I pull out the clutch on 2 level 2nd 3rd or 4th gear. It works great on the level 1 all the gears. Am I just trying to pull equpment that is too heavy with a high gear or is my tranny or clutch going out on me?
 
Have you checked the clutch free travel? It sounds like clutch slippage as the 1175 is not a power shift tractor. The clutch pedal should have an inch or two easy push before it feels like it is contacting the clutch fingers in the bell housing. If there is no free travel I believe there is a turnbuckle standing upright near the fuel filters that can be adjusted to give free travel. If this does not correct your problem it's time to split it and renew the clutch, keep us posted. mEl
 
I just reread your post and have a question, what do you mean by "you pull out the clutch"? The clutch pedal is spring loaded to the engaged position and the pedal should not have to be pulled by hand! I have seen some pedals get rusted to the point that they come back up hard so maybe some PB Blaster and some working the pedal back and forth till it comes completely free are in order as a pedal sticking down hard could cause the same problem as you are describing. A broken clutch spring also will keep the pedal from returning back up but if all else is free will not keep the tractor from driving with full power through the clutch, Just trying to get more info to give correct advice. mEl
 
I just meant when I engage the clutch. It comes up just fine on its own. So do you think I might need to get the clutch looked even it it works fine on all the gears when I have the transmision on level 1 or when I am not towing on 2? Everything works fine until I hook up a plow.Are you sure I"m just not trying to pull something too heavy on a vvery high gear?I would like to know beore I investst some money.
 
The clutch should hold all the power the engine can deliver to it, IE it should stall the engine before it lets loose and don't drive. It is not a terrible job to put a clutch in the tractor if that is what it needs. As I stated before, make sure that the free travel at the top of the pedal travel is there before anything else as lack of free travel will cause the clutch to slip. You can overload the tractor but that would only show up as increased wear over time. If after you have determined that there is free travel at the pedal then the problem is internal. If you could get someone with an understanding of tractor clutches to give you some guidance that may be helpful. mEl
 
The 1175 has a 4 speed trans, with a 2 speed manual hi-lo box. The 4 highest speed gears are found by putting the 2 speed in high. You are essentially trying to plow in 6th, 7th and 8th (road gear)! Those are NOT tillage gears! My 1175 runs over 11 mph in hi-2nd, about 14 mph in hi-3rd, and over 18 mph in hi-4th with 20.8-38 tires. Plowing speed is 3-6 mph.
 
Toolz, certainly you are correct as to being in the wrong range for work, nevertheless we obviously have a serious clutch issue if the engine cannot be worked. As I stated to him previously the engine should stall or the tires spin before the clutch gives out and just sits there slipping. Putting it down in Lo range (1) will definately get him in the work ranges but when the load increases the clutch issue will still be there, that is the level I am working with him on. mEl
 
What I did forget to mention is that the tracotrs seems to want to start moving. The wheels will begin to turn and unless I give it a lot of thotle it wont continue moving. It will stop. When it does move with a lot of thole it picks up to speed very slowly eventually allowing me to ease of on the throtle.
 
Depends on the size of the plow or disk. An 1175 should handle a 5 bottom plow in any soil, a big 5 or a 6 bottom in lighter soil. I would say lo-3rd or lo-4th for plowing, and if the disk isn't real big, possibly hi-1st for it. You'll just have to experiment with it some. The engine makes it's rated power at full throttle, and that's what you should use with a heavy load to prevent lugging the engine. It will run all day at full throttle- that's what it's designed to do. You might want to find a local farmer to make a few rounds through the field with you and get his opinion. Good luck--
 
Toolz, I admit that I am getting frustrated with this thread. Am I missing something or did he say that the tractor tries to move with the clutch pedal clear released but stops and will slowly try to move when the tractor is revved up. That is my take on all his posts. Unless that tractor is different (which I doubt) when the clutch is engaged there should be a direct solid hard coupling between the engine and transmission. If that is the case coaching as to what gear to use for any job is somewhat pointless till the problem is resolved. Now if he is slipping the clutch and not leaving the pedal come out then obviously the clutch will not engage and drive with force. As I previously stated if the clutch is in good shape and it is engaged with a load it cannot pull it has but two choices , stall or spin. Any other conversation is pointless till that issue is cleared up. Respectfully, mEl
 
Hey mEl- It is hard to read this problem. I'm taking it as he's just overloading the engine in high gears, and killing it, or having to rev the heck out of it to get moving, again in too high of gear. Hopefully, we'll get a bit more info so's we can help.
 
(quoted from post at 22:26:49 12/30/10) Hey mEl- It is hard to read this problem. I'm taking it as he's just overloading the engine in high gears, and killing it, or having to rev the heck out of it to get moving, again in too high of gear. Hopefully, we'll get a bit more info so's we can help.
Toolz, Going up about 6 posts he describes how it tries to get going and he can get to a speed that he can back off the throttle. Unless I misunderstand completely this is with the clutch engaged fully as in another post he states that the clutch pedal comes out under it's own spring tension when I quizzed him about that. It is a bit hard for me to believe that someone can even think that this could be normal operation of a standard clutch tractor and maybe getting someone to advise him is the proper course of action. Nowhere in his posts does he say that the engine stalls if he leaves the clutch out to far, only that it will move slightly and move a bit better if he revs the engine up. It sounds to me like a destroyed clutch and has since the first post. You are being helpful to advise him of the gear selections for different implements and surely the tractor will not be in high range for most tillage tasks. I think I'll just back out of this one a bit and let it sort itself out as there is a lot of misunderstanding on someones part , maybe mine if I am not reading it right. mEl
 
It looks like rbenitz32 doesn’t know much about standard clutch veh. I bet his cars and trucks are automatic.. Just guessing! It sounds like this tractor was abused by a previous owner. Mel you are right , if this tractor engine will run in gear and not move it has to be a clutch problem and not trans. Standard trans. Veh all work the same. Even if the adj. was off by now the clutch is shot. SPLIT THE TRACTOR AND PUT IN A NEW CLUTCH, AND THAN ADJ. IT RIGHT.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top