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Case 311 Hydraulic problem

S

Silverdollar

New User
I recently purchased a Case 311 tractor. There are three chambers under and in front of the seat. The front chamber is where I add my hydraulic fluid that pumps out through a line into the back chamber. The middle chamber fills to the same level as the back chamber. In the middle chamber is the gears and is located under the stick shift. I drained all of the hydraulic fluid out and refilled to the proper levels according to the front and back dip sticks. The problem I am having is that after a while the back chamber fills and begins oozing out of the back chamber and the front chamber doesn't refill at all. It seems that there should be some sort of a relief valve that as the back chamber fills up it sends the excess back to the front chamber. I opened up the first and middle chamber when I drained the fluid, but didn't see anything that seem to be a return line or a dirty or clogged screen. Any suggestions?
 
Silverdollar, ya need a service manual.

There are 2 separate "chambers" isolated by shaft seals and the hitch piston seals.

1. The transmission case (SAE 90 gear oil sump).

2. The torque tube case (hydraulic oil sump). The Eagle hitch piston mounted in the top of the aft part of the transmission case is part of the torque tube hydraulic oil circuit. The piston is single acting, oil supply and return are through the same line. Any piston seal leakage is into the transmission case.

Ref to the pix for normal relative full oil levels.

Shaft seal leakage is simply migration to equalize levels. Eagle hitch piston seal leakage is hydraulic pump pressure. So if you're "oozing" out the vent, the piston seals are definitely leaking. Doesn't mean the shaft seals aren't leaking also but you have start somewhere.

Joe
a2229.jpg
 
Joe, Good explanation. The main point here is that if you shut your tractor off with the eagle hitch arms up and they drift down over time, you are transfering hydraulic fluid into the rearend every time this happens. This will be one of the repair jobs on my agenda for this year. I just got a copy of the service manual and it does a good job of explaining how/what to do. Just two little o-rings in there. Will be interesting to see how it goes.
 
Thanks Joe and Randy. The diagram is exactly what I have. Do you suggest that I replace the piston or is it easy to replace the seals instead? I am planning on getting a service manual this week. Any suggestions as to the best place to get one at the best price? Thanks again. Don
 
If your arms are "self" lowering then you need to start with replacing the o-rings on that piston. The seals might be alright if you maintain the correct levels in the reservoirs. I just ordered the 300 Series G&LP Service Manual (CA-S_300.300B) and the 300 I&T Aftermarket Shop Repair Manual (C-201-TY_SG). They are both worth having, but definitely the service manual.
 
There is an update on the three point piston starting with the 430 series. It can used to replace the original or you can maybe have the old piston machined to use the updated seals. Look it up on the CASE ih website under parts.
 
I think I have the problem you are describing here. For some time I have been having to add hydraulic fluid to my 210B but cannot find any obvious leaks.

As you described my Eagle hitch arms slowly drift down when the tractor is parked.

If I understand what you are saying this means fluid is 'oozing' into the rearend and likely then leaking out, correct? Where might it be going? What do I do about this problem?

I'm new to all this so you cannot oversimplfy for me.

It also sounds like I need to get a service manual.
 
The fluid is building up in the rearend casing. It is pretty good sized but it should be gaining fluid as fast as the front casing is losing it. Once I heard how all of this works I have started lowereing my arms before I shut it off. I don't use the arms for anything at this time. Last week I raised/adjusted the arms as far as the threads would let me. Now I can back it off my trailer with the arms all of the way down and they don't scrape the ground. I don't know why the guy before me had them extended all of the way out.
 
Derrick, I am new to this too. What I have been doing is filling the forward compartment to the proper level of the dip stick. Then I bought a small siphon to drain the back compartment down to the proper level on the dip stick under the seat. For a long while it works fine. This is a temporary fix until I get a service manual. I hope that repairing the piston in the back will solve the problem.
 
More often than not you will find the barrel scored from abrasive material grinding back and forth on the bottom of the bore. Work the damage out with a cylinder hone. It will take some effort but I never have had one that could not be saved. A few thousanths out of the bore will not affect the V cups ability to seal. mEl
 
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