Case 1030 Hydraulics Failure

Case 1030.
3pt. works strong and fast. No searching or let down.
Both sets of remotes have no lifting power.

Pressure check at remote coupling rides at constant 500 psi.
Pressure will jump to 2000 psi then back to constant 500 psi.

Something broke? Something dirty?
Remote pressure relief valve?
Valve in left or right remote cap?
Or?

I have never taken a remote control valve off a 1030 before.
Will springs pop out when removed from rockshaft housing.
Looks like I can do it without removing fuel tank.
What should I watch for when removing.

Thanks,
Dell

mEl,
You were right, there is a 1 inch plug on the back of the aux valve assembly to the right of the input tube. It does not show in my parts book.
It would be nice if the pilot relief valve components would come out the bottom without having to remove the housing.
Aux Valve Assy A57571 I have the curved shaft levers.
Tractor SN 829,2837
Engine SN 214,3791
Trans Part No. A3429

I don't have a drain tube in the front bottom right in fuel tank so will drain from line shutoff.

Thanks,
Dell

If that plug is just a flat plug it probably has nothing behind it and your illustration you described is correct for the pilot relief style valve, check as I stated over the phone the o rings and make sure the bore at the bottom of the relief valve body is not knicked up causeing the piston to bind in the bore. I would suggest replacing the o rings with Case OEM. mEl

Well i just got done rebuilding the complete hydro system on my case 1030. yes there are two springs that will push the controll unit off of the housing but they wont come flying out. Some hard lessons i learned was if the pressure releave valve is stuck youll blow a pump. the only way i was able to get the stuck piston out of the housing was by getting a pipe thread tap and i gently tapped the inside of the piston. (you only need one or two threads inside the piston to get it out.) if your lucky the piston is still good. cause its expensive.also make sure you have the right shims in the bottom of the relief valve.... now when you take of the sides of the auxilary valve there are these plastic parts called a thermal valve seat and a thermal ball guide. (there is two of them) the thermal valve seat are still available but the ball guide is not. sometimes the little ball between the two of them gets stuck in the seat, and also the thermal valve gets warped. it takes a little time but tap into the plastic valve and pull them out, and get new ones. Dont forget the oring's that goes in first before the thermal valve. What was happining to me was the little ball melted into the seat valve and i had no controlls on one side.. the best thing that i used was on caseih.com was there parts guide. it breaks everything down into parts and gives you a better idea on how to put it back together. its not hard to work on just take your time. oh yea i forgot when you take off the controll unit off of the tractor there are two plungers one has a oil hole and one dosent. do not mix them up. put them BACK INTO THE SAME HOLES they came out of when you put her back together. i hope i helped a little.

Jester,
Thanks so much, good stuff. I have a parts book but not a service manual with all the specifications and troubleshooting.I've had this 1030 for ten years and never had to tear into it except for changing filters etc. I have been holding off tearing into it because I cant locate an IT Manual around here. I have three TSC's local but they don't stock it anymore.
One thing I am curious about, I was thinking that because the aux assembly is so high above the resevoir case I would not have to drain any oil but when I loosened the plug on the back side of the aux assembly oil poured out. Should I drain the oil down? Not looking forward to a big oil mess when remove aux valve assembly.
Going to look items you mentioned in parts book.
Thanks,
Dell