Case 311 handclutch - replace

I am having clutch problems and am doing all I can to avoid splitting the tractor. I tested this (thanks to archived posts) by disengaging the handclutch after being in first gear - I keep traveling forward at a very slow rate. So I figure I have badly warped hand clutch plates.

If anyone has replaced these or knows more about it, I need some help.

1. Do I need to split the tractor to get to the hand clutch or can i get to it by removing the triple range cover? My manual only shows how to split to get to the foot clutch.

2. If I do need to split, do I split it at the trasmission or at the engine?

3. Where do I get the replacement handclutch plates?

Thanks for all your help!!

Gary; To do anything more than adjust the hand clutch, you will have to split the tractor...1st at the engine/bell housing and then again at the bell housing/transmission. Fortunately, with the size of your tractor, the 2nd split is not that big of an item. Clutch discs are likely available from CaseIH(check by visiting their website). Good luck,

The tractor does not need to be split at the bell to repair the hand clutch only, a rear split will allow you to remove and repair the clutch assembly. The rear split is a very easy job just support everything securely and roll the front end away. If a wide front just drive wedges in at the front axle to keep the front from tipping. I have done many over the years and it is not complicated. As Bradley said get your parts from a Case dealer, preferably one that was there before IH came into the picture, I can tell from some posts on here that they are dealing with old IH dealers who could care less about the older Case stuff. Most if not all stuff is available at your Case dealer , you just need to find one who cares and knows whats going on !

Maybe your hand clutch is adjusted too tight. My 430 will creep when the hand clutch is disengaged until it gets warmed up good. Might try adjusting.

Bradley-
Thanks for the info. So if I understand you correctly if I do the rear split (from bell housing to transmission I will gain access to the handclutch). Correct?
Gary

Take note of mEl's post. He is a retired JI Case mechanic. I am sure Bradley has some good info but the professional needs to be given some credence for his hands on knowledge too.

No offense meant Bradley.

Gary, it is not unusual to have creep or even drive if the hand clutch is not used occasionally. On a level surface you should be able to stop travel with the brakes, hand clutch disengaged. If you have creep or travel after stopping, try it several times to exercise the clutch pack. The torque tube oil should be low viscosity like hydraulic oil. Higher viscosity oil, cold and/or emulsified oil can cause creep.

If you still have travel after exercising the clutch, check the over center engagement pull with a scale similar to the one in the first pix. With scale hooked right under shifter knob maximum pull should be 45 to 60 lbs.

To adjust the clutch pack disengage the lever, lift the triple range cover either with the shifter lever in neutral or direct drive. You need not drain the oil (thanks mEL) but might help to drain it down some for better view on your first one.

Look at pixs for orientation. You will be turning the input gear (below the reflection in the pix) while holding the drum stationary to adjust the discs.

#2 pix is the complete clutch pack, note the spring loaded lock pins that I have labeled #1 (engaged) & #2. One of those pins will be engaged in a slot to marry the input gear to the clutch discs when the hand lever is in the disengaged position.

To adjust, from the left side of the tractor, with the hand lever disengaged, turn the drum & input gear so you can locate & pull out the pin that is engaged and hold it out with your left hand, turn the input gear with your right hand (CCW increase tension, CW decrease if I remember right???). The input gear will rotate about 10° and the other pin will drop into a slot that will again marry the drum & input gear. Continue releasing the pin that is locking and turning the input gear to get the correct tension. Check the over center pull tension each evolution, the tension change is not linear.

Joe

Check the over center pull with the scale under the knob of the hand clutch lever not the shifter lever.

Joe

Joe-
I am finally getting around to checking the over center engagement pull. I get around 35- 38 lbs of pull. However, you mention engagement "pull". When I am pulling I am disengaging the handclutch (stopping travel). Is that what you mean or should I be measuring the "push" to engage? I get about 60 lbs tension with the "push" to engage.

Also - my manual shows the detail of what parts consist of the handclutch. From what I can tell this engagment is all gear driven and has no typical clutch components. Is that true or when I open it up will I see there is more to it than just the gears?

Thanks for your help!