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Allis Chalmers D21 series ll

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I am asking for my neighbor that needs a injection pump for D21 row crop tractor series ll. He bought a "D21 pump" that is a STANDYNE, MODEL DCGFC 629-1293, SN#134128,CUSTOMER#4825881", will it is the wrong one. So now he has paper weight unless he can sell it to someone.
If you could tell me the correct one ; and what uses that model DCGFC 629-1293 will work on I can put a ad in yesterdaystractors. Thank you John
 
The model number will tell you the specs of the pump. What is different from your original pump? On the model number, DC is a 4 roller pump, GFC will be a pump with agriculture purpose governor, 629 is for a 6 cylinder engine and the 29 means it has .290" plungers in the injector pump. These numbers are pretty much common to the pump which came on your tractor. The final 4 numbers you mention pertain to the configuration of your pump such as manual or electric shut off, automatic timing advance, droop screw, etc.
 
What would it be used on as it will not work for D21 series ll. Any idea what is the correct pump for his D21. Anyone with a D21 would you look at the tag on your pump and share the numbers. Thank you John
 
The Allis-Chalmers p/n for a D-21 series 2 pump is 4025881. You have listed 4825881. Are you just reading the tag incorrectly ?? Gearheadbill has given you good advice. That pump WILL WORK, but why you think it won't, you haven't explained. All D-21's are electric shut-off's. If this is a manual shut-off just remove the cover from his old injection pump and swap it with the new pump. I've worked on these pumps for 45 years. I don't think things are nearly as bad as you think they are.
 
The original D-21 series 2 tag would have said DCGFC629-25AG. Maybe your pump was built many years after the last D-21 (1969) and the 25AG was replaced with 1293 ?? Stanadyne is the holding company for RoosaMaster and sometimes after the D-21 was built the RoosaMaster name brand went away with only Stanadyne showing on the tag. Like I said, you're making too big of deal about this. That pump will work somehow, someway.
 
The D-21 with 3400 engine used 74025223, the D-21 with 3500 used pump 74025881. Also be aware, Stanadyne changed the pump numbering system to five digits, so 01293 is probably the replacement for DCGFC629-25AG as both have the Agco AC number 74025881. Original AC number did not have the 7..
 
Thank you DR ALLIS. According to my neighbor; he bought the wrong one a year ago and had it gone through and then it set in his shop for a year. Now when installing it, the shaft that goes into the timing gear is 3/8" too long. Which has him thinking maybe scrape the old girl. It has clutch issues, brake, and fuel tank on top of the injector pump. I am wanting to help him. I would hate to see it scraped. He is a excellent mechanic.
 
The DC four roller pumps have a spline drive with an alignment pin in the hydraulic head, and must align with the shaft internal ring notch. If those don't align shaft will be out of place about 3/8 inch.
 
Thank you DIESELTECH!. I told my friend what you said and he thought that he had it in properly but the splines are so close together. He will try again tomorrow. As he told me that everything is by feel cannot see what he is doing. .
 
My friend installed it as you suggested, however, he was unable to get in timing. Right now it is 50 degree advanced.
Would anyone have the correct pump; and want to sell it? Or recommendations for Allis salvage yards that would sell a pump. Right now he has over $1000 tied up in a pump that is not correct, I am just trying to
help my neighbor.
 
Once again, nothing wrong with the injection pump !! He needs to rotate the driveshaft gear probably ONE TOOTH. Proper timing is 34 degrees BTDC.
 
The easiest way to install the D-21 injection pump is to remove the driveshaft and gear from the engine first. This means draining the coolant and removing the lower radiator hose. It also means removing the umbrella seals on the inj pump driveshaft. Anyway, loosen the nut (to flush) on the driveshaft and place the gear/shaft in a press and pop the shaft loose from the gear. Install the shaft with new umbrella seals back into the pump, properly positioned with the mounting tang inside to fully seat the driveshaft depth. Rotate the shaft to align the two timing marks inside the pump window. Place the pump on the engine with the studs nuts slightly loose and in the center of the mounting slots. Now, with the crankshaft pulley on 34 degrees BTDC, slide the gear into place on the shaft. You have to wrestle with it a little because it is a helical tooth gear, but it is easy to get the gear in place over the woodruff key. Once everything is timed, install the nut and lock washer and torque to 65 to 75 ft lbs.
 
Update. Thanks to all that shared their knowledge, my neighbor has his D21 running. Radiator has been cleaned and installed. Does he have to remove the fenders in order to remove the fuel tank? He wants to get the tank professional cleaned but needs get it off.
 
I think in the end, he'd be glad if he took the fenders off first. Only one I ever did was on a pulling tractor to get at the differential that was welded together.
 
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