Change alt belt on 175?

bv

Member
How do you proceed to change to alt belt on a 175, or how do you remove the hyd pump drive shaft should I ask? And what wiring would you change to put a 1 wire alt on and do away with the external regulator?
 
You remove the chain coupler just behind the hydraukic pump. You have to remove the air cleaner and associated sheet metal covering the pump... relatively easy but time consuming. You can force the new belt between the dual sprockets. I don't know the answer to your "one" wire alternate question. However, I made a shroud to protect my regulator from fuel spill, etc.. and that solved the problem of dust/trash buildup on the back of the regulator...
 
Changing to a one-wire tends to be pretty easy but need a diagram to make suggestions? The only wiring diagrams I have show a generator (the I&T manual assumes the 170 diagrams suffice for the 175) and the parts book shows only an alternator, so I can't make a recommendation on how you'd wire with what I have. If you have a wiring diagram for your current setup, can you post it?

I will be in the warehouse tomorrow morning and there is a 175 ops manual there. It will have the wiring diagram if you don't.
 
1 wire alternator is simple to hook up. You run a wire from the charge terminal to the amp gauge and your done simple as that. 10 gauge wire by the way
 
You're probably right, but it doesn't hurt to check it out first. I was concerned that without a wiring diagram for that machine, you may not have 12 volts to some of the gauges and fuel and oil sensors. I was looking at the 816 diagram which is about the same vintage. It has an Aux terminal on the VR which appears to feed a few things which probably would be unhooked if you only have the battery/solenoid connection hooked up and don't patch in that extra wire. They also had a generator light which requires some unusual circuitry to make it work with a one-wire and maybe the 175 did too. I just didn't want to suggest something without seeing the diagram, might be surprises in some non-critical systems.

The 170 (G or D) was just like you say, you just replace the Gen line and everything works. The I&T seems to think the wiring for the 175 is the same as the 170, but I don't see how it could be since that was the break between generators and alternators.
 
Generators ended with the D series. 170-180-190- etc all had the same basic charging system- Delco alternator with tach drive and remote regulator.
 
You're right. It says generator in the diagrams for the 170 but looking up "Delcotron Generator", that's the name for a Delco Alternator. In that case, and assuming the diagrams do apply to 170 and 175, old is right (sorry Rich). The other two leads running back into the tractor are superfluous with the one-wire alternator because 12 volts is serviced everywhere it's needed.

That means what I would have said to the OP, is the brown and brown-white from the regulator just need to be disconnected and insulated. The "one-wire" goes to the ammeter Charge side.
 
Shoot the way a 1 wire alternator works you can hook it right to the + side of the battery if you want t and it will work like it should. Since the amp gauge is a direct hook up to the battery it is just like going right to the + post
 
I always have to figure out the complex way to do it, that's why it takes me a week to wire a tractor. ;-)
 
You just need to learn to KISS things and keep them simple!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wiring for the most part is easy it is people who make it hard. LOL Shoot I have one tractor that has 2 wires that just lay around on it. One you hook to the battery to start it that other wire you hook to the charge stud on the alternator to excite the alternator. But it is an IH584 diesel so very few wires are needed to make it run
 
I'm not against doing whatever is necessary just to get it working, but when I redo a tractor, I like the harness clean and matching whatever the manual says for the next guy. You're right about the diesel. My HD-7W had no wires anywhere that I can remember except the battery leads.
 

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