AC 5040 Steering

Re: AC 5040 STEERING

I have been searching the Youtubes and the forums for some ideas for refitting my steering.

Basically the steering wheel has almost a full turn before you get any movement of the wheels. I have reviewed parts needed in order to rebuild the steering but think it best to replace existing with new.

I have a small front end loader that will fit the tractor with a little welding and some rigging. The front end of the machine is not real beefy, I understand to keep the loads small so as not to bust anything.

I will need to add the hydraulic control for the FEL with that I could pipe in some lines to a orbital steering valve.

The tractor currently has hydraulic power steering.

Looking for a place to source the orbital valve or any ideas where I can buy something used that I can rig to make work?

If I get the valve installed do I add a cylinder or two to the front end to move the wheels or tie the valve into something existing in the steering components.

I have pics with notes on them. Working on how to post them

Thank you for reading and any ideas that you can share. The machine was my grandfathers or it would be replaced with something new and green with a cab and air!!
Nate from Franklin, Indiana

Your tractor currently has "power assisted" steering. You have a right angle gearbox connected to the bottom of the steering wheel column that converts steering wheel rotation into forward/rearward motion of an arm that is connected to the front axle. If it was my tractor, I'd be repairing whatever is the problem. There are enough of those Fiat/Hesston/Oliver/Allis tractors in the salvage yards by now, finding whatever you need shouldn't be an issue. To redesign a system that quite frankly worked pretty good, to a new untested cobbled up thing would probably be a big waste of time.

That's alot of steering wheel movement!
Can you tell where the motion is lost? Does the assist "feel right" when it does kick in?
If it works OK, it's doubtful it's due to the PS unit itself or the PS hydraulic pump.
If it's at the steering gear box, the fix you're describing won't help.
Could also be the mechanical parts in the front end if the tractor has many hours or tough use.
Find out where the problem is before throwing money & time at it.

The strength of the front ends on the 5040 should handle a loader without problems.

Thank you for your response.
Yes sir that is the name I was looking for power assisted.

The entire system seems to be worn pretty bad. The steering box leaks badly and I would assume we have some worn parts in there and also I have some flex at basically all the connections in and around the power assist cylinder.

I agree those parts could be sourced to repair the existing but with the addition of the hydraulic controls for the FEL I thought I could tie in the hydraulic valve.

That valve and required components may kill my budget with the cost.

I will look into replacing the existing. You guys have a source for used or new AC parts? I have not had a lot of luck with just Google search.

The tractor has been used for mowing its entire life. Came from an old air field where it pulled a finish mower and a sickle bar (I think thats what its called)

Thank you again!!

If it steers with one hand, your power steering is fine.

You need someone to turn the wheel slowly. You start at the steering box and note where the play is in each linkage until you get to the wheels.

I got the half dozen ball joints, pump, cylinder rebuild kit from
RicksAgParts for my 5050. You'll have to take it apart and get a caliper out and get a thread count on the ball joints, then give Rick a call. His website is mostly for the other Fiat imports.

My fully rebuilt steering engages immediately and turns with one finger, even at low rpm and with car tires(the horror!). I spent about $500, including taking some parts to a local machinist.

You don't want to rig your own steering for Grandpa's tractor.

Also Rick will have the FEL hydraulic pump that mounts above the PTO. You'll want that.

Thank goodness the wheel turns easy because it gets turned a bunch!!

I know very little about hydraulics. I have had several pumps rebuilt for trenchers and have had to replace many lines and repack a cylinder or two. But I love how fluid power works and have been working to get my head around it for years. Thats my reasoning for looking into the hydraulic steering. If staying with the mechanical (with assist) is the way to go I will give it a shot.

I purchased a service manual and it mentions the worm screw and the upper and lower roller bearings is furnished with the steering shaft as an assembly for replacement. I will start looking for some sources for these parts, starting with RicksAgParts, thank you krumenacker!!
I also have play in the steering arm connection to the drag link. As well as most ball sockets.

I have rear hydraulic ports could these not be used to power the FEL . Rear hydraulic pump that mounts above the PTO? You got me scratching my noggin (does not take much)

I tried to upload a pic of the tractor and a pic of the steering. Hope it works.

Thank you all very much for your input and info. I have found messing with the tractor is pretty good therapy after a crap day at work.

You can adjust the steering play on a 5040.When sitting on the seat on the right side of the main steering box there is a large nut with a bolt with a screw head in it.Loosen the nut, hold it with the wrench while you screw the bolt in with a screw driver that will take up the slack.Don't get carried away and get it too tight leave some play in the wheel or it'll break the cover plate.When you get it adjused up good retighten the nut while holding the bolt with the screwdriver.Then replace the pipe filler plug in the housing in the rear of the box with a grease fitting.Get a couple tubes of Cornhead grease from John Deere
and pack the steering box full of cornhead grease with a grease gun.Do not use regular grease its not flowable enough.

Nice looking 5040. My 5050 is much rougher. Rick will have all those parts, even the tie rods. Break out the torches.

I see no leaks.

Look above the PTO, you should have an access plate. Remove that and you can mount a hydraulic pump that will only run when the PTO is engaged.

You may also need to jack up the front end and see how much play is in the wheel assembly and bearings. After 40 years, things wear out.

It is a really good design when working.