Help with D -17 Oil

Horvik

Member
Hello;

For summer use in my 226 Gas, is 10-30 all right, or should I run straight 30 w?

All the best
 
Locked up an engine on the dyno because of 10W-30 oil??? I don't think it was oil related, or certainly not because it was 10W-30 oil.
 
I have D-17 Owners Manuals to the series 1 and series 4 tractor. In both books, 20 weight if recommended from 32F degrees to 90F degrees. If temps are constantly above 90F degrees they wanted 30 weight. In the series 4 book, 10W-30 weight was also given an "OK" to use in all temperature ranges.
 
I run 20W-50 in all my engines other then the 1935 JD-B and in it I run 60 weight oil but it also burns a lot of oil. By the way the 20W-50 is what is in the D-17 I have
 
We have several 226 AC engines and they were not made for 10W30.

Run a straight 30W or even a straight 40W

Is your engine the older engine with the by-pass oil filter? If it is then only run a straight weight
 
Well, if you have several 226 engines, which ones are they?? are they G-226's or W-226's ??? Kind of funny I have an Op manual that says 10W-30 was acceptable and you say no. If you have an old worn out engine that uses oil and the main bearings are worn out and thump when running, then I'd concur that maybe 30 wt would have an advantage. But to just say they aren't made for 10W-30 modern day oil is interesting............
 
Because of the EPA demanding a reduction in the Zinc content to less than 800 PPM you might want to consider Diesel oil in all your flat tappet engines,the cam and lifter failures have gone through the roof since they have reduced it and all the older tractors,cars and trucks are subject to failure on the valve trains without either using a zinc additive or zinc enriched oil such as diesel.Just a caution for those that aren't aware of it.
 
I was demonstrating the tractor to a potential buyer who wanted to see it perform on the dyno. When it stopped, I drained out the 10W30, replaced it with 30W, the engine had cooled and unlocked. I started the engine, ran it at fast idle for a little while, then back onto the dyno. During an extended run, there was no failing. Made a sale! And I have a similar story involving a WD45.

The failures could be oil brand related. The WD45 had FS oil (Coop in some markets) and the D17 had Standard Oil Permalube.
 
I had an old Dealer (and a friend) who told me of a time when A-C had some piston pins that fit too tight in the pin bores and would do something similar...get tight when hot.
 
I run 10w30 Rotella in my WD45 all year round. I run 15w40 Rotella in my IH and Deere tractors. The Chalmers WD45 has small external oil lines and in very cold weather it would be hard to push thick oil through those small lines.
 
(quoted from post at 16:53:17 07/05/18) Hello;

For summer use in my 226 Gas, is 10-30 all right, or should I run straight 30 w?

All the best

[b:8eee288973]Quoted directly from my "Operating Instruction Manual - D-17 Tractor -Serial No 24001 and up"

For temperatures above 90 deg F., use SAE 30
" " " 32 deg F., use SAE 20W
" " below 32 deg F., use SAE 10W
Or, use 10W30 for all temperatures.[/b:8eee288973]
 
Anyone use non detergent motor oil? Been using it in my tractor but now my farm store only handles non detergent oil not recommended for gasoline engines.Not sure I want to use that oil.
 
I run 15w40 in everything.never had a problem. I work my 45 as hard as anybody. What the manual says is fine. Something more modern is fine too.
 
I agree Mike,the more zinc the better,but the EPA is so scared that a oil burner of a car,that the zinc will harm the atmosphere. The worst oil today is better than the best oil there was in 1955 for example,It hard to beat diesel oil, 15W-40, for tractor's.
 
You must want to crude up your motor as that is what non detergent will do for it.I've pulled valve covers on motors that the whole rocker area was solid with crude.Quaker State and Gulf oil were the worst for it.
 
if the engine hasn't been cleaned in a while, non detergent is the better option. Detergent in a dirty engine can and will clean it. That can lead to catastrophic failure when a 60 year old oil system can't handle 60 years of crud coming loose at once.
AaronSEIA
 
Quaker State oil was said back In the day to be a wax based oil so the wax stayed behind and that in turn made a nice thick wax like layer on every thing. I've opened engine that used Quaker State and had 1/4 inch or more of what felt like a wax layer on everty thing that did not move
 
I've heard about that on this site for decades - but no one has ever seemed to have it happen. If an engine is so crudded up that it has huge deposits everywhere I doubt clean oil is what's going to kill it.
 
Zinc content in diesel oil has also been lowered quite a bit due to the emissions equipment on modern diesel engines.


The issue with "zinc" is usually reserved for high performance engines with extremely heavy duty valve springs usually during break in - not an issue for old low compression low RPM tractor engines. When the D17 was new most farmers were using nondetergent oil with 0 zinc content - even the cheapest Wal-Mart Super Tech 10-30 oil will be many times better than the original fill from the late 50s early 60s.


My FIL was tighter than bark on a tree. After his car ran 3000 miles he changed the oil and poured the old oil into his tractors "so he didn't waste it". I have one of his D17s that got that kind of "care" it had over 8000 hours when I bought it with only an overhaul on the top end. Surprising enough it doesn't burn more than a quart of oil in every 40 hours of operation - probably better than it did when it was new. I run the "Trop Artic" 10W 30 that I bought by the case on sale at Tractor Supply for less than $1.99 a quart, I change it once a year with about 100-150 hours of use.
 
The only difference in 10w-30 and 30 is the 10w-30 in winter temperatures will be thinner to ease starting and oil flow. At operating temperatures they're both 30 weight.
 
AGREED!!!! At operating temp 10W30 and 30W will have the same viscosity.


Although under extreme conditions (using the oil too many hours, operating in extreme heat, etc...) the 10W30 will start to break down to its base oil - 10 weight. If your tractor keeps the temp in the green or yellow heat isn't going to be an issue. You can easily control the hours of use by changing the oil at the correct intervals.
 

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