Allis 6060 PTO Clutch

I'll try to be brief but descriptive. I bought an Allis 6060 FWA, The PTO clutch (right side of tractor) is stuck in the engagement position. As the manual states if you want to use the PTO, prior to starting tractor engage pto first. After tractor is started and you want to use the pto move the pto clutch lever forward. Right now if I want to use the pto I engage the pto lever but it starts turning when the tractor starts. I took off all the linkage from pto clutch lever under right side of tractor to see if I could move the actuator by hand. The actuator will move slightly but you can tell its hitting something inside. I even (with tractor off) put a small chain on it and tried to pull it to the off position but to no avail. Does anyone know how to fix this or what I have to do? Do I have to split the tractor or is there and easier fix? Let me know if there is any other information you need to give me your two cents... I sure do miss my D17's and how easy they were to work on..Thanks for any info...

Not sure you fully understand how to use the PTO on that tractor. Connect the PTO to an implement. The "stage coach handle" on your right is the PTO clutch lever. Forward makes the PTO run. Locked rearward releases the clutch and the PTO should stop BUT, without an implement connected, it might creep. To the LEFT of the seat is an up/down PTO coupler lever. It operates much like the D-17. To engage the PTO, you pull back on the clutch lever and lock it. You then pull up and grind the coupler into gear. Now, you slowly release the stage coach handle back forward to start the PTO running. Anything that doesn't work like that, means there's something wrong. THE STAGE COACH HANDLE IS NOT MEANT TO BE LOCKED BACK ALL THE TIME !!!!!!! Release the coupler lever and place the clutch lever forward when not using the PTO. The clutch handle has a cable to control it. They sometimes go bad. If the tractor has been sitting a lot, I suppose linkage in the bellhousing could be sticky ?? Excessive creeping with the clutch handle locked rearward could be adjustment of the cable linkage or a warped/worn PTO clutch inside. How long have you owned this tractor ???

Had the same problem and was ready to split the tractor to replace PTO clutch. I put a piece of pipe on the actuator where is goes into the bell housing(torque tube) and applied pressure back and forth and at the same time tapped the shaft back and forth through the bell housing. (the shaft goes completely through the bell housing) It finally freed up and I now keep it well oiled, there should have been a grease fitting for that shaft. 6000 series uses a dual clutch, not two stage, dual.

The long handle on the right should always be forward to keep pressure off the crank. Use the up/down lever on the left to engage. I believe the 4WD lever is there too. Only use the long handle on the right to momentarily stop the PTO.

Procedure: idle tractor, pull back and latch right hand lever, gently pull up left hand lever till it engages, slowly release right hand lever, if everything is working properly, the PTO will start. 540 pto rpm's is 2400 on the tack.

Bill

Dr.Allis, the stage coach handle is stuck
in the forward position, I took all the
linkage off to manually "by hand" to try to
move the actuator the stage coach handle
would normally move. It does not budge,
well a little bit , but its hitting
something inside. There is no way with the
stage coach handle stuck forward to engage
the pto with the lever on The left side of
tractor with it running you will grind your
gears. Remember I bypassed the stage coach
handle and went right to its actuator and
what ever that moves inside is hanging up.

Bill

Thanks for the information, when I get home from work today I'll try that. I heard about keeping it in the forward position but unfortunately I cant get it out of forward so it makes using the pto a pain. If what you did doesn't work then I guess I'll have to be splitting a tractor.
Thanks again..
Jason

Sounds like the cross shaft for the fork is rusted tight in the bell housing casting. I'd be using a hammer to tap the shaft side to side. Lots of good penetrating oil. Maybe some torch heat. Whatever is takes to avoid doing a split just for that. A long lever added to the existing lever would also help as a tool to help loosen things up.

I'm no expert so this might be a dumb
question, but is it possible the fork fell
off. Because when I move the actuator
counter clockwise about inch and a half and
then forward it bounces back and I can hear
it hitting metal. I'm not sure how much
travel there is supposed to be. It almost
seems like it's not connected to anything.

Thanks
Jason

Bill, what you reccomend worked I got it free thankfully. Thanks again
Jason