Bought a model D grader, have a bazzillion questions

docmirror

Well-known Member
No, its not running.

1. Does anyone KNOW for certain, and without reservation that a 9.00x20 M&S traction tire will fit on the back and not touch?

2. WD engine crankshaft main and rod bearing std journal size? I'm going to need to go .020" under, and the bearings are avail here, but we need to know what to grind to, so need the factory journal std sizes to start.

3. What lube should I put in gear boxes. What lube in transmission?

4 Will be operating at 8400-9600' elevation, and need some power. I'm thinking of using that bolt on turbo setup to get me more mani pressure at that altitude. Opinions? Theories? Guesses? I was going to go up one size on the main mixture, but at that alt and with turbo-normalizing back to ~sea level, I'm thinking maybe just leave it alone, and tune carb and timing for best power.
 
You COULD put in a WD45 crankshaft and the highest
compression pistons available; like from a 175. That would
give you a boost in power/altitude correction.
 
Cannot help you very much but if you would maybe want to go with a WD45 engine I have one here that is rebuildable. As for a turbo I would not want to try it because you might blow the bottom out of the engine
 
(quoted from post at 11:01:28 06/07/18) You COULD put in a WD45 crankshaft and the highest
compression pistons available; like from a 175. That would
give you a boost in power/altitude correction.

If you have a WD45 crank lying around gathering dust I will surely buy it from you. So far, the only one I've found is $525 plus shipping plus grinding. And then there's the different rods, pistons, as well as likely new jugs. I might as well do the whole thing over.

Right now, I'm going to get it running with the WD, and investigate the turbo deal more, and if that doesn't do it, I'll look into a WD45 or maybe D17 engine.
 
(quoted from post at 12:53:04 06/07/18) Cannot help you very much but if you would maybe want to go with a WD45 engine I have one here that is rebuildable. As for a turbo I would not want to try it because you might blow the bottom out of the engine

Thanks, will keep in touch. Let me get it going on the stock engine for now, and I'll see about more power once it's on the road. I think I'm going to upgrade to a D17 engine, if I choose not to turbo.
 
I pull this WD45 engine out of my W Speed Patrol because it had no oil pressure reading on the gauge and was getting weak and burning oil. I have not pull the crank out of it but would and would sell it. My e-mail is open
 
(quoted from post at 13:18:29 06/07/18) I pull this WD45 engine out of my W Speed Patrol because it had no oil pressure reading on the gauge and was getting weak and burning oil. I have not pull the crank out of it but would and would sell it. My e-mail is open

I think you can help me, I'll send another email. We'll chat on the phone and help me with the best way to go.

thx
 
Any GOOD REPUTABLE machine shop knows by looking in their "book" what the original crankshaft diameters are. I cannot believe -.020" bearings aren't available from someone. I believe I'd find a different machine shop to do business with. WD-45 crankshaft with D-17 pistons and sleeves will give you all the power you'll need, especially if you install the WD-45 carb, manifold and air cleaner. Do NOT install a WD-45 crank with old WD pistons and sleeves. The ring edge in the sleeves will destroy the rings when the longer stroke crank pushes the piston up thru the old ring ridge !!!!!
 
I mentioned the bearings are avail here, and other places as well.

The shop has been in business a long time, but they don't generally do tractors. And particularly not from the 60s. We know the journals on the old crank, but not the standard sizes, and they aren't here on this website either.

So, here we go. I still need to know the std size journals if someone has that elusive 'book' with the data in it.

Still wondering about the gear and chain lube too.
 
Gear oil on something that old would most likely be the 80W-90 but me I would go with the newer 85W-140.

Still have not gotten and e-mail from you.

As for journal sizes you might try calling an Agco dealer one that has been a round for a long time should have some one who knows that info
 
2.437" to 2.439" on the front main. 2.479" to 2.480" on the center and rear mains. Always use new shims at all the main caps.
 

I'd use 90W mineral oil for the chain lube and transaxle from NAPA. I'm thinking that there's some yellow metal in there so you don't want the GL-5 additives in there to corrode them.

I have the M65 motor grader which came right after the DD motor grader.
 
OK, thought I would give a brief update. I got it home tonite. It was a fair amount of effort. Three split rim replacements, repair the steering gear(weak point of the unit), build my trailer from an old 5th wheel rig, which now has a 12k Lb bumper pull, adjust trailer brakes, new shackles, tires, lights.

It tows well, but certainly know it's a load on.

I have a core WD45 engine going into rebuild soon and I'll try to bump up the compr to about 7:1, and regrind the cam for a bit more power. Use a D17 carb and I should break 50-ish HP.

We are having fun now, I can tell - because I'm sore all over.
 
Does my final drive have spider gears? i.e. Do I have a differential drive, or is it a solid cross axle to the chain boxes?

Also, anyone know if the 9.00x20 tires will fit the rear without touching? I'm going to measure a mounted 9.00x20, but would like to know before I get new tires. The price difference between the two are minimal and I"d like to run 9.00x20 rather than 8.25
 
All the graders I have seen had the normal diff in them. One way you could tell for sure is jack it up so both tires are off the ground and in this case al 4 off the ground put it in gear and try tp spin the tires. one should go forward while the other backwards if a normal diff
 
I know how to test for spider gears, open diff. I am hoping someone already knows and saves me a few hours of fighting with it. It's on a trailer right now, and I want to leave it there until I get the engine fitted.
 
As I said most have the normal diff in them but one does not know for sure on each machine since that can be changed
 

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