D10 Governor Oddity

YTSupport

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I am working on restoring Kim's D10 SIII now and found this tonight after removing the front end. I had noticed that something rubber flew out of the fan when I started it few days ago. Picked it up and it was one of those little sticky backed rubber feet they give you to put on the bottom of routers or modems (and other small electronic devices that need feet to keep from sliding around a table). Looks like someone had replaced the governor bushing without removing the governor cover, then glued one in as a rubber plug. It's interesting that no oil I could see was leaking out of this, yet the oil pressure on this engine is fairly good (on the M of NORMAL) so their bandaid actually worked until I started scraping grease away and knocked it loose. It will surely leak like this though.

I have a couple of other covers, but I'm considering trying to TIG a plug over the end and make it look like the original. If I start tearing into the engine, I will risk opening up leaks, and this tractor runs so good and is tight. The only thing I wonder is what you'd use on pot metal, maybe silicon-bronze, I have some I was going to try (solution looking for a problem to solve)? Might be just a better bandaid than the original bandaid. I don't even know if the stuff will weld, but I can test it out on the thermostat housing I broke when I was taking the front end off. I won't be using that as I already have a replacement, and it's made of the same flimsy pot metal.

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there is no oil pressure inside the cover. There is just a metered stream of oil falling on the gear teeth. The plug would stop oil from seeping past the shaft out of the cover. I would guess that the gear and shaft was remover at some time and lost or forgot when it was put back together. Has been happening since the first B's with that type of design.

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Glad I posted. If there is no pressure there, the nickel or the plug sounds like a simple easy solution. I have the other covers, but they aren't in great shape. I suppose sometimes the bandaid makes good sense.
 
From the picture it looks like it could use a new bushing like in my second picture in any case.

The gear meshing with the camshaft gear in turn meshing with the crankshaft gear are all open to the pan behind the front timing cover where the oil returns.
 
The photo is foreign to me, I've never seen the bushing stick out the front on the various Bs, Cs, CAs, and D-Series I have or have owned. That one I held up next to the D10s is what all of mine have looked like. I'm wondering if I've missed out on an important nuance by random chance. Could explain why the bushing I bought for the D14 was dead wrong even though the correct part number. I may have to pull this off and take a look whether I want to or not.

I guess what I'm wondering, has in your experience, it been common to have the bushing exposed out front or completely closed. That would suggest there are two different part numbers and this D10 is not some hack someone did as I'd originally thought, I assumed they drilled it out. I am enclosing another from G-149, and the one I held up there was from yet another G-149 which I swapped with an identical one from a 1951 CE engine (that tractor, a B, in turn has one off a Navy surplus stationary generator engine from wartime, I think 1943, but they were all enclosed, though I'm questioning my memory now). I'm going to rummage through my junk and find some others to look at.


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I would guess they made them different at different times. I would think they were trying to improve over earlier production runs. All problems can not be seen over a drawing board. If the screw was in place it should not have pushed thru the cover.

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the earlier B gears didn't have the screw to hold it back in place. I would guess that they added the screw when they started to have problems. When it does wear thru, the gear can move away from the magneto drive lugs and cause the tractor to jump timing or just have the magneto to stop turning. I am not sure if it will move far enough so the distributor gears will miss. I sure would pull the distributor housing and check to see why it moved forward.

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The center picture is of the inside of the cover with a good bushing. You actually need a new bushing placed on the inside of the cover. It is a blind bushing! the hole does not go all the way thru the bushing. Before the shaft can show on the outside it first has to wear thru the end of the bushing. I have repaired the bushing when measuring the amount the gear can move forward and placing a piece of brass in the bottom of the bushing the proper thickness to take up the forward movement. I didn't think the screw alone was enough to hold the drive back on the B and C's. I have not seen it on a CA which would be like your D 10 except for the tac drive. I see now it can happen but can only guess as to why.
 
As normal I forgot a few words. I repaired a bushing that had not wore thru but had wore enough to have forward movement more than I thought it should have. Clear as mud I am sure!

If you knew what I was thinking you would have no problem with what I say or type! :)^D
 
Here is the AGCO bushing that was so wrong for the D14 and B governor, but it looks like it might be perfect for the D10 housing. I also chipped away at the glue and underneath is the brass bushing and hack marks where someone customized it (it's really hacked up, bushing and casing). It will be interesting to see how it looks inside since the end is quite round yet doesn't protrude near as far as yours does. The AGCO bushing is not rounded, but flat fronted. It appears as a ball bearing would and looks as if there is weld spatter of all things. I may end up finding that I have a governor that has to be replaced.

I also took a look at the D12 tonight, though I couldn't see in there. It has the indentation like those you posted. So both the D10 and D12 are different than all the other governor housings I have. They are all flush fronted and use a bushing that is different ID and has no front on the bushing.


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It has my head spinning somewhat. I doubt anyone welded on the cover. Looking at the picture that I posted where the shaft had (broke) thru the front and yours I think the flow of aluminum going around the core pin that would make the hole for the blind bushing caused it to look like that when it broke. Again it is only a guess but the part would have to vent the air out of the mold to keep from having air pockets or tiny air bubbles. Some would have been made in a poured sand casting type manufacturing and later ones most likely made in a injection type die casting machine much like plastic injection machines. In a die casting machine the amount of aluminum forced out vents to keep from having weak areas is much different that in the pouring. As the tecknowlage in aluminum die casting advanced the manufacturing of these types of parts became much cheaper and better.
My picture is without the bearings and not on a tractor. I took the pictures to show what happens and why when this came up years back for someone else. When I found the problem it looked the same as yours as far as the shaft showing. When assembled the bearing spacer that connects with the governor fork keeps it from sticking all the way thru.
 
I think I'm understanding now.

Sorry, didn't mean to imply the cover was welded, just that on the end of the shaft, there are what appears to be weld spatter beads. Not sure what they actually are though.
 
If anyone is like me in hurry and a welder they might try about anything that may not be thought thru. :)^D
 

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