Repl WD engine with upgrade

docmirror

Well-known Member
I asked this before, in a kind of roundabout way. Here's what we have;

A WC which is good cond except a broken crank. To repl the crank, and bearings is ~$500. Would like more power behind it.

Would it be smart to try finding a whole WD or WD45 tractor, in rough shape with good engine, and do the transplant.

The WC engine is out, apart now, but will take some time and money to make work.

Again, we would really like some more ponies.

What would tractor people do?
 
The WC and WD use the same engine so putting in a WD engine would not do much if any thing to get more HP. But a WD45 would add more power. You could also find a good WD45 crank and build an engine that way.
 
(quoted from post at 11:02:51 05/14/18) The WC and WD use the same engine so putting in a WD engine would not do much if any thing to get more HP. But a WD45 would add more power. You could also find a good WD45 crank and build an engine that way.

whelp, as I recently learned, the WC/WD crank, and the WD-45 crank are not the same PN(longer stroke), and it appears are not the same journal size, unless someone has info to the contrary. The pistons also appear to be different, due of course to the different stroke. Which means a LOT of engine work, not just the crank, but now maybe rods, and pistons, and rings, and I might as well start over completely.

If the WD-45 crank will go in my WC crankcase, and the journals will be ok, and no change in the rods/pistons I would really like to know that. I will prefer putting the WD-45 crank in my block, and just change the carb, and governor setting. But - I don't think that's going to be the case.
 
If I remember right you also need to use the WD45 rods and piston with that crank. If you where here in Missouri I have a WD45 engine that is almost complete but need to be rebuilt. Ran when I pulled it out but had almost no oil pressure but still ran that way with no knocks just smoked a good bit. I took it out of my W Speed Patrol and put in an engine out of a WD I picked up cheap. That engine I was told had low hours on it and it runs good and that was why I pull the old engine out
 
Unless your really attached to the WC may want to consider a WD to replace it. They are nicer to run for several reasons and there not high priced right now. You would have foot brakes a hand clutch for live power and steering ratio I believe is more favorable to the operator. Just my somewhat educated opinion.
 
(quoted from post at 11:25:16 05/14/18) If I remember right you also need to use the WD45 rods and piston with that crank. If you where here in Missouri I have a WD45 engine that is almost complete but need to be rebuilt.

In another situation, I'd mosey on up to MO and buy that from you. But - being that it'll entail another large outlay of cash and time, I was hoping to just get a good running engine out of a busted tractor, and toss it in my rig.

Maybe I should call around to breakers yards and see what a running WD45 engine would be.

Just on the off chance I would want your project, what kind of price are you thinking?
 
Back when I picked up that WD tractor that I pull the engine form to put in the W Speed patrol I had been looking for a good engine so understand what your saying. As for how much I'd be asking close to what ever a core engine would be. I also have a complete WD45 I'd maybe sell. By the way my e-mail is open
 
WC and WD are the same block- 201 cu in. WD45, D17, and Model E Gleaner combine engine are all 226 cu in, so more power. 201 has a 4 inch throw, others are 4 1/2 inch. Also higher governed rpm. So more power.
 
Unless you have an early WC, the WD45 crank is a drop in. Use the old rods (they are the same as the 45 anyway) and make sure to use WD45 pistons. You'd also want to use a 45 intake and carb to see the power.
AaronSEIA
 
(quoted from post at 17:01:57 05/14/18) Unless you have an early WC, the WD45 crank is a drop in. Use the old rods (they are the same as the 45 anyway) and make sure to use WD45 pistons. You'd also want to use a 45 intake and carb to see the power.
AaronSEIA

they must use a different piston pin offset I guess. If the WC and WD45 rods are the same the offset has to be different to accomodate the compression and piston height.
 
I forgot about the WC I have that is a parts machine. It still has the crank in it but would be likely to have to be turned to be able to be used. That could be shipped to you
 
If you are purchasing an unknown engine (Block), always check the oil for signs of coolant in the oil...

Probably over 50% of them have that small defect..

That is NOT a death-sentence for it, just usually a small crack in the metal between the front 2 sleeves..

The Block can be did-assembled and Resistance-Welded, but that is not a real requirement.

An AC Mechanic, years ago told me this (and it IS True)..

Just remove the lower Freeze Plugs from the side, Clean the water jacket well..power-washer and use a wire to be sure you get all the sediment out..let the block Dry.. then plaster the entire Water-Jacket floor with a abundant application of #2 Non-Hardening Permatex.( about the ONLY thing I will use Permatex for)..

I would use a whole Pint in the block, letting it flow to all the corners and around the sleeves..

I paint the back side of the Freeze Plugs with the same Permatex and drive them in (New Ones)..

Most of these have been run for years, getting coolant in the oil..it is most likely a very small amount, but the Permatex treatment works fine and prevents any leaks from any lower sleeve-liners as a bonus..!
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top