Installing Char Lynn on WD45 help

Ken C.

Member
How many more parts do I need besides the $860.00 Torque Generator? I have researched this on this site & others & it apears I also need a $71.00 Port Block kit (hose manifold) in order to hook the hydraulic hoses to the PS unit. Also, do I need a bracket for the PS unit? Can this be bought or need to be made? A Steiner tractor parts tech told me that I also will need a $223.00 priority valve. Do I need this? I can see a hole in both shafts on the Char Lynn unit, & understand that after cutting 10" out of my steering shaft, I need to drill a hole in each end also. What is used to connect the steering shaft ends to the PS unit? Are there some collars involved to connect them together with roll pins? Do the roll pins come with the unit or do I need the diameter & length & buy them? Your help is really appreciated.
Thanks, Ken C.
 
Couplings with hole for roll pins into both shafts in and out. Mine were connected to a power steering pump with reservoir that was mounted off the front of the block and vee belted to the water pump. There was no priority valve as it was complete system. I've never seen one plumbed into the tractor hydraulics. gobble
 
It'd be a lot cheaper and easier to find a complete used outfit somewhere like eBay from a parts tractor. We bought one a few years ago with pump, reservoir, brackets, double pulley, etc. Think it was around $350. Even came with the modified throttle rod and steering shaft couplers. It sure makes it more fun to drive now. Like having a new tractor.
 
As they said you need to buy or make the couplers for the steering shaft, you have to modify the throttle shaft. You have to make a bracket that goes to the frame that is strong enough to resist the generated torque. You also need to purchase a pump, an older Ford powersteering pump is what a lot of guys use. You need to build the mounting for the pump and figure out how to rive it from the crankshaft, you can not run it with a flow divider on a WD45. plus of course hoses
 
You drive it from a separate pump driven from the crankshaft pulley. The flow from the built-in tractor pump is insufficient to supply the torque generator, and it will stop when you push in the foot clutch.
Replace the crankshaft pulley with a two-groove pulley and install a power steering pump somewhere above the thermostat area.
 
Thanks, in order to change the front pulley (to add another groove) would I need to remove the radiator?
Ken C.
 
Thanks, It sounds like most folks just have the shaft couplers. Where do they come from or where can you get them?
Ken C.
 
You have to unbolt the entire front support and slide it forward. I did our WD a bit differant than most. I made a 2 groove pulley for the generator and drive the power steering pump from the front groove. Back when I did it the 2 grove crank pulleys were like gold, now they are reproduced
 
Yes. It has a Char-Lynn tag on it. I'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the radiator to have enough room to get at the crank pulley. I don't see the need to remove the entire front bolster. Your hand crank rod should slide forward enough to give you room. Pulley is held in place by set screws. Spray the old pulley down with P Blaster and let it soak. It'll probably be stuck good if it's never been off. Would be a good time to replace the crank seal while you have the pulley off. Good luck.
 

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