wd45 shifter woe's

My tractor serial # is WD206037, which makes it a 1955 year, as I understand the YT serial # chart. The curved stick shifter is a new unit, as is the two buttons that the shifter pivots on. That seemed to cure the shifter getting locked into two gears at the same time. After sitting unused for 2 years, the first time I shifted into road gear, I had to remove the stick, and line up the forks again. I am guessing, that the ends of the forks, where the shifter stick contacts the forks, is also worn, and the forks either need replaced, or removed, and built up with braze. How accurate is my guess, and is it possible to buy new, or rebuilt forks?? WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS? The transmission is the 2nd style, mentioned in my WD-WD45 service manual.

Used to be a guy in Nowthen, MN who had a jig to rebuild those shifters....Lloyd Werner. He died, and I have a phone number for either the guy who bought it, or who will know who bought the system. Send email. I won"t post the phone number here.



























. He died, but another guy bought the system. I have a phone number for him or someone who knows who bought it.

JMS/MN, Email is sent! Thanks!

Measurements
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There are four areas of wear on those curved shifters. #1. is the obvious end of the gearshift ball tip. #2. is the big pivot ball of the gearshift lever that sits in the upper pocket of the shifter tower. #3. is the square headed shifter pins that keep the lever from rotating. #4. are the three shifter lugs inside the cover (on the rails) that the gearshift ball tip fits into. The #2. pivot ball can be built up on the underside to keep the lever from moving up and down in the tower pocket. Both the tower and the pivot ball can be worn, so building up bottom of the ball works and the goal is to minimize the up and down movement of the shifter. Two snap rings to retain things is also a must on an old worn shifter. #3. Those square headed pins are available in an oversize from AGCO and are larger in the square head and diameter. You'll have to drill out the round hole in the tower to make them fit. Grind the square head only 2 sides to make them slide tightly into the repaired/straight groove in the side of the gearshift pivot ball. If your gearshift only has one groove, you can make a second groove and then use two pins, which the later tractors had. Most of the time my grooves have a little taper to them and I grind the square head tapered to fit the groove. It's hard to make them like new, but with a little patience, they can usually be brought back up to acceptable standards. Being used as a loader tractor was the worst situation for wear and tear on the shifter.