WC leaky head gasket

Matt Reinders · Jan 3, 2018

I recently rebuilt a 1937 WC engine. I sent the head and block to be machined and leveled prior to the rebuild. I followed the torque pattern/specs, but when I went to add coolant to the engine the head gasket leaked coolant. I am going to remove the head and start again, but asking to see if I missed anything. I did spray the new gasket with copper coat sealant. I used the old studs as well. Just seeking advice. Thank you!

DrAllis · Jan 3, 2018

I've worked on those engines for 50 yrs now. I have NEVER had a block surface milled off. If you have skimmed off the top of the block and not cut the sleeve counterbore's deeper, your sleeves are up too high and the gasket isn't getting squished where the water passages are. Copper coat should be OK, but paint 3 coats, letting each one get good and tacky before installation. I use Hylomar sealer myself.

Matt Reinders · Jan 3, 2018

Thanks for the reply. The sleeves did install flush with the top of the block. I will double check that. My game plan is to remove the head, clean everything up, and
redo. This is the first time I have had this problem and I have rebuilt 7 engines, but this is my first WC block.

old · Jan 3, 2018

So you left the sleeve in and had them mill the block right????????? That is a super big no no and is likely to be where your problem is. The sleeve HAVE to stick up just a little bit so as the have the sleeve seal O-ring to seal and to have the head gasket seal correctly

KenL · Jan 3, 2018

Just did an Oliver 70 that did the same thing. Head was re surfaced, block was off .003"in one spot (that's not where it leaked). Took it apart and used Hylomar. No more leaks.

Jerry Coulter · Jan 3, 2018

That was a chronic problem with the early W engine. Later engines had more studs. I think if you use the suggestions given here, you will overcome that problem.

DrAllis · Jan 3, 2018

Earliest engines had 12 bolts or studs. Later engines had 3 extra 3/8" studs on the spark plug side. Sleeves should have been standing up .002" to .005" above the deck surface, never flush. You might try and re-torque all nuts/bolts when COLD and see what happens. That's worth a try instead of ripping it apart.

WGM · Jan 4, 2018

Tighten the head bolts more until the gasket stops leaking.

WGM · Jan 4, 2018

Unless I'm missing something I don't remember reading this.

old · Jan 4, 2018

Wet sleeve engine so yes the sleeve HAVE to stick up a little or the head gasket and sleeve seals will not seal as they should

old · Jan 4, 2018

If the seals and mil so they sit flat on the block you can tighten the head bolts till they break and you still will not stop the head/sleeves from leaking. I got a C in years ago that had that problem and could never get it to stop leaking. Use the block with some sleeve I took out of a cracked block and made a good running tractor for a guy

resden · Jan 9, 2018

Where do you get the Hylomar? Went to NAPA and all they had was Permatex spray copper! Is the Hylomar a spray or liquid? Do you apply it to both sides?

I installed a new sleeve and piston on a WC and installed the head with a new gasket, torqued the 1/2 inch studs to 90 and the 3/8 inch to 35 and still had coolant dropping down on the camshaft so I guess I will have to get another new gasket and do as you say!

WC leaky head gasket

Matt Reinders

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DrAllis

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Matt Reinders

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old

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KenL

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Jerry Coulter

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DrAllis

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WGM

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WGM

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old

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old

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resden

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