D10/12 recollection needed

YTSupport · Oct 12, 2017

I'm rewiring Kim's D10 Series III (1967). Does anyone recall where the ground cable connected originally?

This one was hooked to ops platform which was not original, it just used one of the holes where the battery box should have connected (had it not been gone). It also had what was left of a ground connection back at the last fender bolt. That seemed like a hack too but could have been a woven ground strap type of connection. There was also a duplicate cable (unhooked back in the past sometime) that ran all the way up to the starter. This could have been a ground, or it could have been the original hot. The hot had been replaced with an old number 1 cable from an auto tie-wrapped to the other cable. The other cable (a number 4 gauge) had original paint on it.

I'd like to put it back as from the factory rather than just find a convenient place to ground it, but I may have to do that if I can't figure out how it was connected.

old · Oct 12, 2017

I cannot tell you where it was when new but I have found that the best place to ground one is at one of the bolts that hold the starter on. That way your ground it right at the place that draws the most amps. That is where I grounded my D-17 at when I started messing with it to get it running. It was pulled out of a fence row where it had sat so long that 3 out of the 4 cylinder had what appeared to be mouse nest in them. It now fires up after the first few cranks of the engine and run good but sure is one ugly tractor

YTSupport · Oct 13, 2017

Yes, could take it up to the starter ground connection coming off the solenoid (not bolts because the smaller machines use a single set bolt), but it seems like AC wouldn't have spent the extra money to run two large cables 7 feet or so, when they could have gotten by with a short ground. And the cable routing loops might not hold two 4 AWG cables. The D12 runs the ground up as far as the platform mounting bolts, but I think that was a owner hack too. I was thinking there must have been some other way they did it.

That's great you got that 17 alive again.

old · Oct 13, 2017

It took a lot of ATF and time to clear the mouse nests out of the 3 cylinders. I could get it to fire on 1 cylinder right away but that is not enough to have it run. Then I got it to fire on 2 and it would sort of run. Then finally on 3 and then 4 and it has run well ever since then it seems to like to eat ignition switches. Had a key type switch on it and that went bad. I then used another key switch and it to went bad. Then I hooked up a push button for the starter and a toggle switch for the ignition and a couple weeks ago one of my deer hunter was using it and the toggle switch went bad so I had to hot wire it

YTSupport · Oct 14, 2017

I figured this out so I thought I'd close the issue. Surprisingly, the parts manual shows the mount point. It is the rear fender mount bolt and uses a woven strap rather than a cable. Below SN
9001, it appears to go to the horizontal surface of the operator platform, but the manual doesn't provide a clear view and I'm not starting on the D12 just now anyway.

D10/12 recollection needed

YTSupport

Administrator

old

Well-known Member

YTSupport

Administrator

old

Well-known Member

YTSupport

Administrator

Similar threads