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D17 Series IV - thermostat replacement

D

dhermesc

Well-known Member
I have been soaking the bolts with Liquid Wrench for a couple days but they don't want to let loose. I've only been using a 1/4 drive socket to attempt to loosen them because I don't want to deal with broken bolts. How often do you end up with broken bolts trying to get the thermostat housing off? Or is dealing with the broken bolts just part of the process or with they take more torque then I am giving them credit for?

How much heat can you put to the housing without causing an issue (not that I have anything bigger than a propane torch).


I give it a 99% chance the bolts are original and a 50/50 chance thermostat is original
 
Direct heat from a torch on the cast iron housing that the bolts threads are in, not the aluminum. A torch is best. New gr5 or gr8 bolts when you get it apart.
 
I have also found once you have heated it to pour ATF on it that way the ATF soaks in deeper then by pouring on when cold. And of course I do not use any thing but ATF as the oil of choice to break parts free. Also once you have the bolts out be sure to clean up the bolt holes in the aluminum and coat the bolt with grease. Aluminum and steel do not get along well so that is why they tend to get so hard to remove
 
After you get the housing off you might have issues with your new thermostat seating properly when reinstalling it. Mine was not fitting right and bought a second thermostat thinking I bought the wrong one. I ended up buying a new housing from a vendor on here and it all went together as it should! Ryan
 
Dealer had the correct thermostat - but only in 180 degree - not 160 like I wanted and it costs $48. The online thermostat I bought was only $16 - but no way it was ever going to fit.
 
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