Allis Chalmers C runs BUT

Bookman

Member
I got my 1942 Allis Chalmers C started and running. Thanks folks for the good advice. However, I still have two problems.

The first might be semi-simple (I hope). The switch from the drivers seat will not shut it off. I assume I just have wires mixed up. I had a "real" mechanic work for me putting the tractor back together, and maybe I trusted him too much. The lights do not work so probably somewhere I need to change out a wire that goes to the magneto to short it out that should have gone to the lights and vice versa. Hopefully it is that easy.

The second problem might be more of a challenge. The tractor seems to run well at idle, but if I speed it up it dies. If I speed it up slowly it works for awhile and then dies. If I try to speed up quickly it dies right away. At idle it seems like it will continue to run. Again I welcome any advice.
 
I don't have an answer on the first one, but the second one sounds like a fuel delivery problem. My B has a similar problem, it would idle fine, but when you sped it up after a short time it would die. My intake kept getting clogged with rust and was constricting the flow. You should have a nice steady stream of gas if you remove the drain on the carburetor bowl.
 
With it having a mag it may not have the shut off wire hooked to the mag as many did not have that. On the side of the mag should be a small stud sticking out that may have a spring clip on it. If it has the spring clip on it that is the shut off. Or you can shut it off like I do my 1935 JD-B which is turn the gas off and be done with it.

As for the run problem does choking it hurt or help?? If it helps then you have a carb problem or a fuel problem. Can you pull the drain plug form the carb and let it flow and will it fill a pint jar in less then 3 minutes. If it does that then pull the main jet cover off and turn on the gas you should get a small but steady flow of gas out of the main jet cap is you do not then you have something clogged up in the carb
 
Yes, there is a small stud sticking out with the spring clip and that will shut if off. I got a shut off switch of Steiner but maybe that does not work on a magneto. Yes, I usually shut off my tractors by shutting off the gas and then I pull the ground wire off the battery. I might not use a particular tractor for several weeks or months.

I have not checked on the gas flow yet. I have been working on the wiring and it is driving me nuts. I got a wiring harness from Steiner and thought I followed the wiring diagram, but no lights....and no shut off switch. Thanks
 
Well if you do not have a wire hooked the where that spring clip is then you cannot shut it off with a switch and that switch has to be one that grounds the mag out. If it is set up where it would put battery voltage to the mag you would smoke the mag in a heart beat. Problem with many wiring set ups it they are made for tractor with battery ignitions not one wit ha mag and the 2 do not work with each other
 
(quoted from post at 02:03:53 07/26/17) Well if you do not have a wire hooked the where that spring clip is then you cannot shut it off with a switch and that switch has to be one that grounds the mag out. If it is set up where it would put battery voltage to the mag you would smoke the mag in a heart beat. Problem with many wiring set ups it they are made for tractor with battery ignitions not one wit ha mag and the 2 do not work with each other

There is a wire hooked up to the spring clip is. Whether it goes back to the switch at the drivers seat, I cannot tell as it goes into the harness and not well coded (at least to me). But it must not be the light wiring or ( as you wrote) it would smoke the magneto). This tractor, as you probably know, has both a magneto and a generator. In any case, shutting off the switch at the drivers seat does not shut off the tractor. Pushing the spring switch against the magneto side does.
 
I pulled the drain plug and it drained pretty slow. Then I took the line off going into the carb and it drained slow. So I cleaned out the gas line and it drained about the pint in 3 minutes. I thought great!! Problem Solves!! Fired it up and no difference.

BUT I did pull out the choke and with the choke about half out, it would run full throttle. So from you said I have a fuel or carb problem. I would not think a fuel problem since it is the same gas I burn in my other tractors (regular unleaded..not ethanol). So what does it tell me about a carb problem. I do not see any adjustment screws. I suppose I could take it off and clean it tomorrow. Any further suggestions? Thanks
 
It originally had a shut off and light switch at the driver's seat. I do know if they worked since the tractor was not running when I got it. I would think I got the wires wrong somewhere.
 
Ok so if you can follow instructions do this. On the lower part of the carb is a nut looking part. If faces the radiator. It takes a 1/2 inch wrench or socket to pull it off. That is the main jet cover that I have talked about. Remove it and then turn the gas on. You should get a slow but steady gas flow out of it. If you do not then turn the gas off pull the drain plug out of the bottom then spray carb cleaner spray into it and poke it out with a piece of wire or as I use a torch tip cleaner tool. If you look into that place where you pull the plug out you will see the main jet and it is clogged up. Once you spray and poke it out turn the gas back on and make sure you have a steady but small flow out of it
 
As i said if the wiring is not set up for a mag it will not work. A battery ignition and mag ignition are wired totally different and the wiring form one CANNOT be used on the other unless you want to trash a mag as in make it start to smoke and burn it up big time
 
By the way if it would help you help your self my e-mail is always open and I can answer you that way or I'll give you my phone number so you can talk one on one which I have a number of people do when they are having a hard time figuring out how to fix there problem
 
Thanks, Do you have a cell phone. I could try to send you some pictures either via cell phone or e-mail.
 
My cell phone is dumb pay as I go phone and does not work when I am home. I live so far out that as my dad would say we get sun light 24 hours latter then other people do
 
Well so far i have not gotten it but some times they take almost as long as snail mail does and some times it takes more then one try since Y-T does have it bad days
 
Not sure what time you sent that to me but I have yet to receive an e-mail from you but have had 4 others come in in the last 20 minutes
 
Looks like you need to try sending me an e-mail again. I did a test a couple minutes ago and sent my self one and I got it but have not gotten one from you
 
I tried sending some but could not get down loaded from my phone. So I took some pictures with my camera, and I will just put them here. I will post a couple in each message. The first two are wiring in the panel box. I will then post the generator and magneto. I have a difficult time seeing which wire from the panel box goes to the generator. Now the on off switch is one post and I assume it goes directly to magneto, but I wonder if needs to be grounded better at the panel box since with the new paint, the panel box may not be grounded well. As you know, this is a positive ground tractor. The on off switch is low right; the light switch is lower left in the panel box pictures.
 
Posting pictures on this site can be a pain some times but if you tried to send me some on the safe mail system that does not work at all
 
I fired the up the Allis Chalmers C today and it runs fine. Thanks to Old!!! I cleaned the carb and let it set a few hours yesterday in carb cleaner. That may have done the trick. It idles up and down fine now.

Also, I put a ground wire on the on off switch. Now the on off switch shuts off the tractor from the tractor seat. It is a kill switch for the magneto.

I put ground wires on the lights but they still do not work. So I have work to do. Also, I am not sure the hydraulics work. I need to check and see if the PTO needs to be on. It is a parade tractor so I am not sure I will go to a lot of trouble on the lights and hydraulics, but any advice welcome.

Always a great feeling when I go start a tractor after working on it, and it works like it is support to do. Thanks everyone for their help!!!!
 
PTO has to be spinning for the hyd to work since they are driven by a cam in the PTO housing.

As for the lights if you have a VOM test them if you do not hook them up to the battery and see if they will light up maybe as simple as a bad bulb or 2

Now here is a funny for you. I talked to you yesterday about your tractor problems and a short time latter I got a phone call from a gal that is working on a 1939 B and is having carb problems and I walked her threw how to fix the carb problem she is having
 
They are new bulbs I put in earlier, but I have not taken the lights apart to see if I get electricity to them. My guess is just not a good ground. Fertilizing the lawn now and piece broke on the fertilizer (again). After I get a new part ordered and the lawn fertilized today I will get back to the tractor. Thanks much for your help.
 
Double check the bulb sockets and make sure they are not dirty or rusty either of which will cause them not to work BTDT many times
 
I got the lights working also today. Thanks to old of the forum and Dennis of Steiner. The switch I got from Steiner was wired correctly. However, I probably had a bad ground on the lights, even though I had ran separate ground wires from them to a bare screw on the radiator. In my "testing" I probably blew a fuse on the light switch. I replaced the fuse. No lights but when I put one of my test light on metal reflector and one on the bare screw, I got a light on my test light. I then worked some more to get a better ground to my lights. Got the lights going and put the switch back in the box and the panel box back on the tractor...and still had lights. Then spent time putting the hood back on the tractor and touching up the paint I had scratched. Thanks for all the help.
 

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