Allis Chalmers C STILL not starting

Bookman · Jul 23, 2017

A few weeks ago I posted a message about my 1942 Allis Chalmers C not starting. Now I overhauled it had it started a couple of times since then, but when I tried to start it a few weeks ago it would not start. I tried again this morning after checking over several things. The engine is not stuck. The battery is fully charged. I checked the connections coming out of the battery and they are good. I took the starter to the local repair shop and it is fine. With my tester it appears I am getting current into the starter. I run the tester from the negative battery cable (it is positive ground) to the post on the starter and got current.

The starter is not attempting at all and no noise/attempt at all with it.

What should I be checking now? This is driving me nuts! I am hoping to sell the tractor but no use trying if I cannot get it started. Any help appreciated.

old · Jul 23, 2017

Take a heavy piece of wire or a jumper cable and go from the ignition side of the battery right to the starter. If it has the old saddle type switch on it you will have to pull the cover off so you can hook the cable right to the starter. If it turns over that way good chance the saddle switch is bad or the battery cable it self is bad.

Bookman · Jul 23, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:50:53 07/23/17) Take a heavy piece of wire or a jumper cable and go from the ignition side of the battery right to the starter. If it has the old saddle type switch on it you will have to pull the cover off so you can hook the cable right to the starter. If it turns over that way good chance the saddle switch is bad or the battery cable it self is bad.

Thanks, I will give it a try. The saddle switch should be new, but one never knows; and I thought I tested the battery cable, but again, never know until I try it. Gotta be something wrong somewhere! I will let you know the results.

old · Jul 23, 2017

No real way to test a battery cable and be sure it will carry a load. One can ohm it out all day long and get zero ohms resistance but still be bad so as not to be able to carry the high amp load. Seen more the none battery cable look and ohm out good but not be worth anything but a tie down

JOCCO · Jul 23, 2017

I am will old on this one also check the GROUND I HAVE SEEN MORE THAN one look good but cause major issues. Use booster cables to test things out.

Brian Jasper co. Ia · Jul 23, 2017

Battery cables are very easy to test. You test them by doing a 'voltage drop' test. You will need a digital volt meter. Start the test by putting the negative probe of the meter on the negative post of the battery and the positive post at the other end of the cable. Try to start the engine. If you see more than .25 to .5 volt, you have unwanted resistance. The same test can be done on the switch. Using this test method will prove out all parts in the circuit. If you only measure .5 volt total across the cables and switch, and you battery is good, the starter would be faulty. If you measure battery voltage across the switch while trying to start the engine, the switch is faulty.
Don't overlook the simple stuff like corroded battery terminals or poor cable connections.

Dick L · Jul 24, 2017

Two little screws holds the saddle switch to the starter. Remove the screws and drop the switch down, Take a set of jumper cables and jump from the battery to the starter. Positive clamp to one of the bolts that hold the torque tube to the engine. Just hold the negative clamp to the copper post the starter switch is suppose to connect with.
That is the way I start my C that I mow with. I don't have a saddle switch on the starter and use a jump and carry battery.

teddy52food · Jul 25, 2017

On mine , the ground was bolted to the steering post. It wouldn't work until I made a long cable that went to the starter stud That holds the starter in place.

Bookman · Jul 25, 2017

I got it started. I took the saddle switch off and took it to the local auto electric repair shop. It took good to them..and to me. I cleaned up the post on the starter and ran a cable from the battery to the post, and it started. Now it was hard to start since it has only been ran a few minutes since the overhaul. I put a charger on it and with enough electricity it turned over and started. I assume maybe just the post on the starter got corroded, but I assume the repair shop would have caught that when I had them look at that a couple of weeks ago. Oh well. I put the saddle switch back on and got it started...several times. It runs but I have a couple other problems that I will put in a separate post. Thank for all the good advice.

Bookman · Jul 27, 2017

Also, as I posted on another thread, I cleaned the carb yesteday and let set a few hours in carb cleaner. And with help from old (via telephone conversation) I got some ideas on the on off switch. I grounded it at the actual push pull switch. So today the tractor started right up, and I can shut it off at the on off switch (kills the magneto) from the drivers seat.

I put ground wires on the lights, but they still are not working. I need to check on their grounds some more (thanks again to old).

Also I am not sure if the hydraulics are working. I think the PTO needs to be one, but I need to double check what I used for oil. Do not know how critical that is.

It is a parade tractor so not critical that hydraulics or lights work, but advice always welcome. Thanks for all the help from the forum. Great when things work like they are supposed to.

Allis Chalmers C STILL not starting

Bookman

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old

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Bookman

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old

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JOCCO

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Brian Jasper co. Ia

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Dick L

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teddy52food

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Bookman

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Bookman

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