Problem with B Oil Pan

Oil pan was leaking pretty badly, so I got it off, cleaned everything well, and put on a new gasket. Now it leaks horribly - way worse than before. Its leaking from the front mostly, but also a fair amount from the back. The old gasket had some silicone stuck on it. Did I miss something? The gasket did not seem to match up quite right in the front. Is there some trick to this?

If I have to use silicone, its a tight fit. Can I take off the wishbone for better access? How do I do that safely?

Thanks,
Tim
 
Almost bet it has been torqued down to tight to many times and is twisted or warped. Seen many oil pans and valve covers torqued down way to tight and then in turn it has caused them to get warped so hard to make them seal. I have an oil pan that that will not happen to but then again it is the old cast iron oil pan which are getting hard to find but it lays here in my office waiting for a new home
 
A possible leak point in the front that takes extra care is where the front timing cover fits between the block. I hope the picture helps show the possible problem. If the silicone has not set up when the pan is put on it will stick to the pan gasket and pull out when the pan is removed.

march18032-vi.jpg


march18033-vi.jpg
 
Dick L: For how you pay attention to detail, have you found any good reason why there is that 1/8" gap at the front where the pan is supposed to seal?? It seems to me that that could have been designed better when it contributes to hassle for a good seal at that spot?
 
Tim, I have found that removing the wishbone makes pan re and re much easier to do. You need to safely jack up the tractor under the torque tube, remove the steering link at the front where the cotter pin comes out and unscrew the plug and lift it off the steel ball. Secure the tie rod movement from side to side, pull the main pins front and rear and just roll the axle out...it doesn't take many minutes to do.
 
Not really! It might be to give room to adjust the cover to properly position the crankshaft seal. Actually the pan gasket covers the area to where it should seal properly. However I had a leak problem early on and letting gasket maker set up before installing the pan solved the leak. I have done them all that way since because the open space with the gasket only sealing the thickness of the timing cover seems less than desirable. If the lip fit tight it would still be hard to seal. I like to glue the front cover to the block held tight from the bottom studs also. If it is not you can pull on the bottom center of the cover and get a slight movement.
 
Thank you everyone for the advice. I will try to pull the pan and remove the wishbone this weekend. Need to get the bleeding stopped before I can fix the rest of the issues. I may just have a decent little tractor once I get done.

Tim
 

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