wd-45 new head gasket leaking

I just got done fixing a spun road bearing I had to turn the crank and pull the head to remove the piston to have the rod bearing surface fixed since the bearing spun and wrecked the rod also.
Anyway put it all back together new gaskets and the head gasket in the front half the engine is leaking. I torqued it down to 70lbs starting at 25, 50 then 70 and 25 on the 3/8 studs. I started in the middle then worked in a chriscros pattern to the outside. Could someone tell me the correct way to torque the head? I have heard to run it to seal the head but that just doesn't seem right. I have a lot of money in it to fix this spun bearing. any suggestions on why the head is leaking? I will say I thought I had the matting surface cleaned well. I know the block was good.
Thanks
does anyone have the part number for just the head gasket?
 
Did you torque it down then run it till good and warm and then re-torque the head bolts??? If you didn't then that is why it leaks so now you need to pull the head put on a new head gasket. Torque it down to spec and then run it till warm and re-torque the head bolts. It is also a good idea to use something like copper coat gasket sealer when doing a head gasket
 
Did you check and make sure the head is not warped? Very hard to get the gasket to seal if it is. I reuse head gaskets most of the time, I simply apply a thin film of "Blue Magic"
pipe seal compound. Never had one leak in over 40 years of doing it...of course the gasket should not be damaged if it is to be reused.
 
I have not run it more then enough to make sure it was good for dist timing since I had the dist out and maybe 2 or 3 runs at 15 to 30 seconds before adding the radiator. each run was over a few days.
I can run it good and warm then re-torque. Do I re-torque while its hot or when it cools down?

(quoted from post at 02:18:52 05/12/17) Did you torque it down then run it till good and warm and then re-torque the head bolts??? If you didn't then that is why it leaks so now you need to pull the head put on a new head gasket. Torque it down to spec and then run it till warm and re-torque the head bolts. It is also a good idea to use something like copper coat gasket sealer when doing a head gasket
 
I did not re-use the old gasket it I bought a new gasket set since I had so much of the motor tore apart. I was told not to use any gasket sealer.
anyway it was a new gasket. If I heat this up and re-torque I will take it in to see if it got warped didn't think about that since it was fine before I took it apart.
 
What is it leaking? compression into radiator? water into oil? water outside? Oil outside? Makes a difference. They are not a difficult head to seal and you do not need gasket sealer of any kind to seal them if things are right and it is tightened down properly.
Things to check.
Did you have the sleeves out? Did you check standout? Did you clean the studs and holes in the head so junk didn't drop down on the gasket when slipping the head on? Did you straight edge the block and head? Depending on how you cleaned them blocks and heads have been screwed up by cleaning also. Guy at work caused $10,000.00 worth of damage to a Caterpillar engine deck by cleaning it with a die grinder w/scotchbrite disks.
 
it is leaking water out from like #2 piton around one side to #2 on the other side maybe not that bad but it is leaking. carb side was the worst. I did not clean the bolt holes and it did sit over the winter and the head could have had crap in the holes. I usually don't rush but my dad was pushing me to get it done. Excuses lol Now I will try to re-torque when hot but I will plan to pull it apart. First time I have had a problem doing tractor heads this makes 7 or 8 so it threw me off!
 
Clean head bolt holes and clean head bolts are a MUST. Anyone who installs a WD45 head gasket without some sort or goo or paint or sealer is asking for trouble. Re-torque when engine is COLD and reset tappets to .017" COLD.
 


IF you have it properly torqued, USE the tractor and put it through sever GOOD Heat-Cycles..

Re-Torque and most likely the seeping will stop...I have NO problem with using "Bars-Leaks", either..
 

Have it more than "Warm"...have it HOT and sweating from some real Field-Work when you are ready to Re-Torque..

Yea, I know it's HOT, but that is the way it MUST be done, to do it correctly..
 
I have never run them to the point of being real hot and NEVER had any problems either. Just need to run them say 15 minutes or so, so there up to operating temp
 

I have worked on huge presses with retaining bolts over 10 ft high..

At the required torque, the press would jump from the floor when cycled..

Investigation revealed the retaining bolts were to be Heated RED for a distance of 6 ft when being torqued...

settled it right down..

It all depends on if you want it done "Half Way" and later do it again..

Several Heat Cycles are better to settle the head gasket than one Heat Cycle..(let it cool down between heat cycles)..
 
Once you've taken the head off an old engine you really need to check it carefully for straightness. It might be clean but it can be warped or have a high spot that you can't really see. Take a known good straightedge and check it in several places and directions. lay it sideways the short way and slide it all the way along the block and feel for variations. The old gasket would have been well seated and stuck to the surface sealing those imperfections. A new dry gasket will leak unless you have the block and head machined flat. There are really good and really bad head gaskets too. Be sure to get a metallic gasket with the copper grommets on the water passages, not one of the thin black fiber ones. Victor Reinz 3162 is the best.
 

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