wd45 govenor

I purchased a wd with a wd45 governor on it,it has a new 240 cu in. has a new rebuilt govenor already on it. my question is that the governor doesn't seem to kick in like my two other 240s that I have. it does have a degreed cam.would a different spring bring it to life earlier. or is it the cam is set up for higher rpm. its a new tractor to me.
 

Back in their day, the WD-45 was known for Rattling the Slip-Clutches on equipment if the governors snapped open all at once..

I think it may be that some linkage needs to be re-set..

Usually Governors ( like the ones on 2-cylinder JD's) can be "Lazy" or so snappy the engine will be on the verge of galloping...all with a minor adjustment of the linkage..
 
The "governor" between a WD and a WD-45 are exactly the same parts. Engine off. Hand throttle set to wide open. Remove the cotter pin from the link rod behind the generator. Pull the link rod out of the governor arm hole. The governor arm should not move rearwards at all. If the arm moves rearwards, shorten the link rod to the carb by bending it in the middle until it just slips back into the governor arm hole. Make sure nothing is binding or catching on the linkage. Oil the linkage points. Watch out for the cotter pin on the carb end of the link rod. It needs to be trimmed short and wrapped tightly so it cannot cause a problem binding.
 

I have done exactly like doctor allis has said on all three of my wd45 tractor. Only differences is on this one it has a reground Murphy's cam that is degreed to 102. So it comes in at 1300-1400 rpm not like the other two at 600-800. Just was wondering if a different spring or weights would change it.
 
No brand new dennys carb, I
don't have the number with me
at work.
a159910.jpg
 
You know, I've had several different carbs on my pulling engines over the years (one was a 190XT Bendix) and never had an issue with the governor or its adjustment. What is your high idle speed when the throttle is clear open ?????????
 
I didn't build this motor so no sure of valve lash yet, going to pull it once to see where I'm at first. Just would like the govenor to kick in at a lower rpm. thanks
 
If that carb has a larger throttle bore, your governor will be less sensitive that with a stock throttle bore size. You can do what I do and it should help, but the governor action is still the best at full throttle, not part throttle. That's just the way it is. I add an extension to my governor arm about 3 inches tall. Made of 1/8" flat strap 3/4" wide.... use 1/4" Gr8 bolt and lock nut to bolt to the governor arm. I make mine as tall as possible just to clear the exhaust runner on #1. Adjust link rod length by tilting the extension. This will help wake up the governor action some. Adjusting the link rod so the carb is 1/8" short of full open will also help and will NOT affect the HP. Last step is find a set of governor weights to a Gleaner model E-3 combine. They are a 150 RPM droop versus 300 RPM droop on tractor weights. They may very well no longer be available.
 
Thanks for the tip Dr. Allis.
I made my extension bar last
night and tried it out this
morning. What a difference
it made. Tractor comes to
life at all rpm now.it also
moved my throttle range
farther down on the quadrant
which I wanted. I drilled a
second hole about a 1/2 down
and after the top hole made
the govenor lope a little I
put linkage in second hole
which is perfect.
 

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