190 allis 3 point problems

ok guys, im looking for someone that is an old experienced tech with the 190's or someone maybe that has had the same trouble that I am having.
the 3 point on this tractor would not go back down without holding the lever with a pitch fork and jumping up and down on the arms. I have bought a manual and studied the thing front to back. after looking the tractor over good I found that one of the levers that goes to traction booster and depth control was froze up where it pivots on the shaft that is on the floor frame of the tractor just inside the right rear fender. I looked up the part and found it had changed from the original design, got online and found a nos part. picked it up for 14 buck and put it on. freed up all the linkage and lubricated it. checked the traction booster valve to make sure it was free, it moves freely. refilled the tractor with fluid since I done a complete hydraulic and trans service on it, and fired it up. tested the 3 point, it went up great. not so good down. I pushed the lever with the pitchfork and stood on the arms again. it would go down but still really slow. kill the engine and push the lever and they go down pretty easy. at least better than with engine running. does anyone have any idea what is going on here? ask more questions if you want. Im all ears. ps, I am an experienced construction equipment mechanic, just lack experience on Allis Chalmers. thanks in advance guys

I don't recall working on a 190 valve. Assuming the 170-180 is similar- there are two external adjusting screws on the valve stack. More specifically, I believe one on the three point valve, and one on the traction booster valve. One adjusts the rate of lower while the control lever is in the traction booster position. It's typical for the arms to need help to go down, and it will be slow, in that position. With a plow hanging on there, it's a different story! But if you're holding the control lever fully forward, and it has to be held,(no detent), arms should go down easily. The other screw, and I'd have to read the manual to be sure on this, I think lets you change the traction booster flow. I don't know if it bleeds off the traction booster circuit, or if it takes some of the main circuit flow and adds it to the traction booster.

Other than those possible adjustments, it's a matter of what you have already done. But I might start right down at the torsion bar, and make sure all the adjustments are good all the way up through the system, and that EVERY joint is free to move.

These things I know. #1. The 3pt hitch goes down the easiest AND FASTEST with the Lift/Lower lever held clear forward. This means sitting in the seat and HOLDING the lever forward, or putting a bungie cord on it. #2. The hitch is more difficult to get to lower when the engine is running. The faster it is running, the more difficult it is. THIS IS NORMAL as it is caused by normal back pressure in the system. The colder the oil, the more bigger problem. #3. Cold hydraulic oil is anything less than 150 degrees. #4. Shut the engine off and you'll see better results. You are worried about something that is the way it is supposed to be. As long as the Traction Booster plunger isn't being applied, you have no problem. Hitch up a plow or blade and go use the tractor and see how nice it works.

As the Allis Dr said that's how our series 3 XT operated. Ours had a socket on the right side up high near the remotes that you could stick a bar or screwdriver in and run the 3 point valve from the back of the tractor.

Might want to take the cover off the traction booster valve and make sure its completely going back into the housing if it got a little rusty it may not being going in all the way
a fraction of an inch will make a big difference.