Slieve O rings

I was told to put silicone on the slieve O rings on the WD engine I'm working on. On the oliver engines I've done the directions said no silicone. No directions with the slieves and pistons for this engine. Have you guys ever used silicone on an Allis engine? Thanks.
 
If the block is smooth and not pitted, always use vegetable oil or corn oil. Now, if the block is terrible, I use fresh orange or red RTV. By fresh, I mean a new tube so the RTV is thinner and flows better. It may take a big rubber hammer to drive them in with RTV and be sure to bolt them down tight until you want to install the cylinder head.
 
I have never done a WD but have done a number of B/C engines and I would NEVER use silicone on them or any other o-ring for that matter. I do use Dawn dish soap on them and have never had any problems as of yet. Just did a JD 1020 and used dish soap on them also. Matter of fact one reason I had to go into this JD 1020 was some one used silicone in place of the sleeve o-rings which did not work well
 
I suppose it wouldn't be detrimental in the long run as long as the O ring didn't get damaged but not sure it would be as slippery as liquid dish soap. Your trying to press/flatten the O rings between the sleeves and the bottom bore of the block without cutting/pinching off part of the O ring so you have a proper seal. I can think of other slippery compounds that would work but most people have liquid soap on hand.
 
If you don't already have it, I doubt you'll go buy a bottle, but the John Deere 308 lubricating soap is great stuff. I've used it and dish soap, and the Deere soap let me push them in by had, but with dish soap I had to lightly press them in.

Make sure when you're gone you bolt/clamp them down. You don't want them moving and breaking their original seal.
 
Dr Allis..... sorry to interrupt this post ; looking for help on "depth control lever" on side of console? How it operates; why mine is not working...maybe also a guide to troubleshoot...can you help me? Thanks.
 

Now come on fellas...you KNOW Better...

This is from an Original AC Dealer Mechanic...

USE #2 Permatex on t5he entire water jacket floor AND around each and every Sleeve..

The WD style Blocks have a tendency to get a crack between the front 2 sleeves and this forgoes any need to worry about it EVER....

As you know..#2 Permatex IS non-Hardening and there is NO reason not to use it...Or...you can just take a chance that you will or won't have to tear it back down...when the oil starts to get Milky...

Your choice..

As far as the Hydraulic lever...are you sure you have followed the manual, setting the pump, etc for "Hold" position..?
 
(quoted from post at 12:32:18 02/10/17)
Now come on fellas...you KNOW Better...

This is from an Original AC Dealer Mechanic...

USE #2 Permatex on t5he entire water jacket floor AND around each and every Sleeve..

The WD style Blocks have a tendency to get a crack between the front 2 sleeves and this forgoes any need to worry about it EVER....

As you know..#2 Permatex IS non-Hardening and there is NO reason not to use it...Or...you can just take a chance that you will or won't have to tear it back down...when the oil starts to get Milky...

Your choice..

As far as the Hydraulic lever...are you sure you have followed the manual, setting the pump, etc for "Hold" position..?

Original poster is my grandpa. This block is already cracked but was drilled to keep it from cracking more, it cracked in between the cylinders parallel with the crank is there anothing we should do while it's apart to keep it from leaking? This block is out of a parts tractor. The original block was cracked and the block settled down, this motor is a 240ci 4.5 by 4.125 engine for a pulling wd
 
Any WC/WD/WD45 block that is cracked between the sleeves down low where the O-rings are is a JUNK block. End of story. Cracked on the top deck area is still junk in my books, but many are still used anyway, as the head gasket seals the cracks. Problem with the top area is the crack can spread the block apart and the sleeves aren't supported as well.
 
(quoted from post at 12:25:30 02/19/17) Any WC/WD/WD45 block that is cracked between the sleeves down low where the O-rings are is a JUNK block. End of story. Cracked on the top deck area is still junk in my books, but many are still used anyway, as the head gasket seals the cracks. Problem with the top area is the crack can spread the block apart and the sleeves aren't supported as well.

Forget to say the block is cracked up top
 

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