Push Rods back in - specific order or no?

gdtractor

Member
Hi again ..
I got my stuck engine on an Allis C - Unstuck -- I pulled the head and pulled out the push rods .

Now when I put it back together - I did not mark which push rod went where (oooops!)

They appear to be the all the same length - do I just put them back in ANY push rod hole after I place the head back on?

Thanks so much AGAIN !!

Gary
 
The push rods in this engine are not oil pumpers and as long as they are not bent or look damaged on the end you will not need to worry.
 
Duh? (to me!! exactly, I have NO CHOICE!!)

Thanks SO much for your help .. good news to me .. hope it works okay ..
I do have one piston stuck to the sleeve but am using "care" to get it apart and smoothing down all the sleeves with those metal scrubbing pads (can't think of the name of them right now - ha!)

Gary
 
Since you have the sleeve out if the piston is down a good bit in the sleeve fill it 3/4 of the way with ATF then add a couple tablespoons of as and light it up. Do that till most of the fluid has burned out and I'll almost bet you can then pull the piston out real easy while it is still warm. Doing that will heat up the sleeve but not the piston so the piston should almost fall right out
 
Not much to cause a location problem as you can see in the pix.

DSC04949-vi.jpg


DSC04950-vi.jpg


When I have had stuck pistons in sleeves after having oil over the top of the pistons for a while, I have stacked sleeves so the rod hung down in the hollow sleeves. I placed a metal plug over the top of the piston and used a sledge on some and later used an air chisel with a blunt punch. Both worked without breaking anything. In all cases I was only trying to salvage the rods however I was able to save some pistons that were in spec. I was never able to save sleeves from bad stuck pistons because of the pits.
 
Finally .. it appears to be free .. a little polishing on the sleeves yet .

thanks so much for you help .

Please take a look at it now ... here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raf0Z6DzAXU

Strange .... ha ! I couldn't move the crank with a 6 ft prybar ..

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/raf0Z6DzAXU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Gary
 

Nice train videos come up also...

One thing..I about crapped when you started striking that Iron Sleeve with that Hammer....!!

DO NOT do that...(at least not when I am looking)..!!!!

Your engine looks pretty good inside....
 
oh .. ouch!! Okay !! thanks for the advice !! Idiots need a lot of help .. ha !!
Really .. though .. I appreciate the advice !

It has been a LONG time coming ..

Gary
 
Once you lift the sleeve up it will need new O rings. It will have to come all the way out and be cleaned for that. Once the o ring hardens it will have lost ability to expand out to reseal.
Not fun to get water in the oil after all your work.
 
Yeah Dick,
Wasn't even thinking that far. I always clamp my sleeves down if I turn the motor over without the head on. There's a good chance all of your sleeves could have loosened. Depending on your money situation, I would think hard about putting new sleeves and pistons in after going to all this work.
 
Not being sarcastic .. but why .. if the head seals fine and everything is working free ... why would I put more money in it ?
something is going to leak .. probably that I am not expecting?

I have 11 old tractors . . 6 had stuck engines . and none of them smoke . BUT .. I must tell you .. this is the FIRST one I have had to take the head off ..

school me please .. I am SLOW .. ha !!

Thanks again . I love learning .. and I know I can get into trouble fast .. by not listening .

THanks Gary
 
This is the best picture I could find. The two grooves you can see at the bottom of the sleeves need O rings to seal water from getting into the oil.

march18024-vi.jpg


Looking down thru the engine block you can see the bottom bore the O rings have to be able to expand against to seal.

march18027-vi.jpg


The bottom bore needs to be cleaned and sanded to where you can put the cleaned sleeve all the way down and to turned 360? by hand. Some times the oxidation makes it seem like your sanding or grinding to much away to get the sleeve turn 360? The new O ring has to be compressed as it enters the bottom bore. A slight bevel at the top will help keep the O ring from being cut as it is forced down in place. Don't get carried away with the bevel. If you take your time and make sure the sleeve fits properly and really shiny clean you will be fine.
 
I suggested replacing because it wouldn't cost that much, maybe $300? I Don't know what your budget or plans for this tractor is though. A set of new orings will be about $40 maybe?

If the sleeves and bores look good and you're not using the tractor much then go ahead and reuse them, but if you need to use this tractor a lot and bores and rings look iffy, then just saying you might wanna think about replacing.

I've seen some of Dick's stories of rebuilding these with good used parts and running for a long time, so it is possible.
 

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