Tips sought on D 17 rebuild

loveshisallis · Jan 16, 2017

Hello;

I have 1963 Series III D 17 which had two problems, 1. Took 5-8 seconds to develop full oil pressure, then fine. 2. A knock on startup that would last the same 5-8 seconds, then be fine. The final thing I can say is the the previous owner had lent it out to a neighbor once and the tractor come back three quarts low and also he had to install a new head gasket.
So, now I have the majority of her tore down, planning a front split next, and yes it has power steering.
What I need is advice/tips form you experienced guys what to check for, in light of the brief description I gave.
The tractor has the heart of a bear and I certainly believe it is worth the work involved.
Thanks

old · Jan 16, 2017

Check the rod bearings and make sure none feel loose or have scared the crank shaft. Most knocks are caused by a rod bearing that is loose and being run 3 quarts low on oil can/will stare the bearing of oil and cause then to scare and go bad and sooner or late get so bad as to throw a rod. If you can so much as feel a ridge of any sort on the crank shaft with a finger nail it need to be turned and new bearing pt in

Nordic · Jan 16, 2017

Old's advice is good. If the liners and pistons look good you may only need to put in new piston rings. If they don't look good get new piston/sleeve kits and it will be like new for a long time. If you know your way around working on heads and valves you'll know what to do there otherwise take it into a machine shop. That goes for your crankshaft as well. If you're not fully confident regarding the journals and bearing clearances get expert opinions from a machine shop.

JMS/.MN · Jan 16, 2017

Measure the liners and pistons for wear, and liners for out of round. There are tolerances for upper and lower liner wear measurements as well. You"ll need micrometers for that. Get an I&T AC-17 service manual.

DrAllis · Jan 17, 2017

Pounding sound is probably coming from a worn/loose center main bearing. Crankshaft will probably need to be reground undersize on the mains anyway. New main and rod bearings. New cam bushings !! and I never ring one...new pistons and sleeves. New governor weights and pins/clips. New valves guides and grind or replace valves depending on the wear. Machine the manifold flat or you'll never keep gaskets in it.

BushogPapa · Jan 20, 2017

Or Hydraulic Pump..

If you still have it apart, go with the 170 Kit along with the 170 Governor spring..

Increase the seated Valve Spring Pressure and use PLENTY Permatex ( Non-Hardening) to install every Sleeve and Coat the entire bottom of the water jacket with it..then you will NEVER have any lower sleeve seeping into the oil pan...

loveshisallis · Jan 23, 2017

Hello;

Got to working on the mill and here is the information. Check the first 2 mains (from the front) and they plasticgaged out to just over .003. The first rod checked at .0015. I could not quite catch my nail on the surface on the crank.

So one question I have is can that main bearing clearance (Book sez .0035 is upper limit)cause the problems I have listed?

Also opinions on the cylinders invited.

Thank You

Tips sought on D 17 rebuild

loveshisallis

Member

old

Well-known Member

Nordic

Member

JMS/.MN

Well-known Member

DrAllis

Well-known Member

BushogPapa

Well-known Member

loveshisallis

Member

Similar threads