My B model Restoration

Raptor44

Member
Ok so I am into this resto pretty good now. Pics later. Just put my back tires and rims back on and it won't roll again. This happened before. Seems like I had it figured out. Pulled it through my garage and out the back to sand blast it. Primed it and rolled it back in and jacked it up. Now it won't roll again. Feels like its stuck in a gear. I can't shift into all of them. Fool around rocking the tractor and It goes into a set of different gears but not all of them but I can't quite unlock it. Time to drain the Gearboxes. Yikes lots of water. I mean full. It sat for ten years. Question is. If I get all the water out and refill with correct oil might this help the problem or is it possible there is a need to tear down deeper.
 
Very good chance you have a bearing if not a number of bearing that are locked up due to rust and if so you best open it up because if you do free it up the bearings are likely to be so loud you will not hear the engine running when your driving it around. Plus may have stuck shift rails etc
 
Well there is a good chance that at some point over the years the water has frozen in there. But not lately. Also I have rolled it quite a few times and heard no abnormal sounds. At least not yet. I keep this in a heated barn/shop. Have never seen it below 45 in there. Ill know more once I finish draining it and refill with oil. Going to open it and have a look see also. How hard is it to access the shift rails?
 
Noise when moving it with out the engine and noise when the engine is spinning it over will be like comparing the noise an engine make when you turn it over by hand and the noise it makes when it is running. RPM make for a lot more noise then just rolling it around in a shop. I have Ford 2N transmission tha twill not shift to any gears due to it being rusted up real bad
 
The water probably came in the shift lever when the boot dried out and cracked. When you get the transmission problem sorted out don't forget the final drives, they may
have very old mud for oil in them if nobody has ever changed them.
 
If you sandblasted it all together and did not disassembled everything, you've got sand everywhere, and it can even lock things up.
 
It rolled when I brought it back in the barn after sandblasting. It was together and everything was plugged before blasting. This is not my first. I opened up the side of the tranny and pulled the forks and rails out. One of the end pins had dropped. I reset that. Will clean that up and relube it today. Also the inside of case looked ok. Just sprayed it out with penetrating oil and then lubed it up with some lithium spray for the night. Will see what happens. Going to drop the final drive pans and have a look see also. More than likely correct about it being full of something that shouldn't be there. Happy New Year All.
 
pull the round cover off the right side of the transmission... the shift forks are bolted onto it.. look inside, wiggle things around and reinstall... you can also wash out transmission with it off...
 
All looks good in the tranny and shifter rails. All gears move nice. Goes into all gears with shifter.PTO selector operates freely. Looking at the brakes now. Adjusters are rusted. Brakes work and I can see the adjuster side of Shoe move. Other side does not. Drain plugs in the bottom are almost plugged. Lots of crap down there. Still haven't pulled the bottom bull gear pans.
 
Im still cleaning the garbage out of those axle/ brake housings. Packed full of who knows how old of refuse. Slow process.
 
Finished cleaning the brake housings out. What a job. Still wouldn't roll. Dropped the bullgear pans. About a cup of water in each. Not bad just a messy job. Still wouldn't roll. Pulled the Accessory Gearbox off the back. Couldn't really see anything amiss until I had my son start to rock it. The left side gear would only move about an 1/8 of an inch. Sprayed everything down with Sea Foam Deep Creep and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Resprayed again and started to rock it and it broke free. Again just a light layer of rusty goop on everything that I am in the process of cleaning out now. Hope to paint this soon. Thanks for the help OLD.
 
Always happy to help if and when I can. At least this time I was able to point you in the right direction even if I could not get you spot on
 
Worked for me. Here's a pic of the little Demon.
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What weight or type of lube goes in the axle bull gear pans?
Also What weight for the Transmission/Differential case?
 
In the bull pans I use 85W-140 and in the transmission/hyd I use the 303 fluid I buy at Orchelsen I'd say buy it at O'Reilly's but at O'Reilly's it is $45 but the other place if you catch it on sale is $19.99
 
Ok I cranked the old gal up and sounds good. However I have a couple of fuel leaks that shut me down for a while. Waiting for a new fuel bowl assembly, it leaks real good and can't shut the fuel off to the carb and the bowl leaks with new gasket. Second problem and a concern is it appears as though the float valve isn't working. Soon as I put gas in the tank the fuel would run out the front of the carb. I spent a lot of time cleaning all of the carb interior thoroughly. Installed a high end rebuild kit. Marvel Shebler. Readjusted the float twice now and same result. Am I missing something here. Help. This is all I need to finish this tractor.
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