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WD45 degreeing a cam HELP

M

MMWD45

New User
There was an old post on here where a member by the username of WI50 was offering to degree a cam if you sent him one. I am currently building a WD45 engine and had the cam reground, port and polished the heads, polished and cleaned up the manifold and would hate for all this work to be fore naught because the cam is off. My concern is that there does not seem to be a simple way to adjust the degrees of then skipping a whole tooth but from what I read there are ways of doing this. I am just not to this level yet and do not feel comfortable doing it myself.I guess I should ask if can even be done by just send out the cam or does it need to be done in the engine its going to be installed in. If anyone out there knows someone who can do this near centeral or southeast PA or knows someone who I can send it to please let me know.

Thanks,
Matt
 
It will have to be installed. I could try to tell you how. But doubt just words will work. I would google installing a cam. Video will be lots better. Doesn't matter what engine a small block chevy. Same idea. Do you have a dial indicator? . Also may have to file a of set key.
 
If you are familiar with the "other allis sight" on the internet. you will find WI50 hanging out and answering question in the "PULLING" section.
 
No way I know of to degree out of engine. The purpose of degreeing is to set the valve timing to the engine installed. Takes some time: trial and error: shims,custom keys, etc...to get it right. Also need a degree wheel and dial indicator. Good luck.
 

Hold onto the "SPECS-SHEET" for that Cam...it is information you MUST know, to decide just "where" you want the cam "Timed"...

Compression ratio even has a bearing on it..

And then, you have to KNOW the expected RPM and desired Torque range you expect to use..

Will be interesting to hear how this engine turns out..!

GOOD LUCK..!!
 
Thanks, I have degreed a cam with a chain drive where you can adjust with bushings. Its the gear set up that's making me nervous and how to actually make the adjustment other then just skipping a tooth. I have the cam with the bolt on gear and I could slot the blot holes but how do you prevent the cam from moving.
 
Shims between cam gear and shaft works for small adjustment.provided they are angled teeth. Taking an oversized key and grinding on opposite sides can be done also. That will offset your cam.
 


Determine what you need and get or have made an Off-set Key for however much off-set you need...possible you won't even need any.

If you are into experimenting or "Tuning" on a Dyno, you may want a Range of off-set keys made..

The WD-45 engine is one Bad Boy, when it comes to hunkering down and hanging in there..You won't want that LOW RPM.. at least figure on maintaining 1,000RPM to maintain some HP while it "Hangs in there"..that should be what your Re-Grind should be ground to deliver..

You do know that Later models ran at higher RPM and the Governor spring is the main difference..
 
If you have the early style "3-bolt-on gear" it's fairly easy. You'll jump the cam gear one tooth advanced and then slot the 3 bolt holes just enough to actually bring the cam back 1/2 tooth. It won't jump time with Gr8 bolts because the bolts are up against the slotted hole sides...it can't move. Still use a degree wheel and dial indicator to verify your numbers, but this is the essence of it.
 
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