WD45 and Box Scraper

Patatrcc

Member
Just wanted to share some pics. Had the A-C out today after I got her a chrome stack this week and spread out a few yards of gravel on the driveway. Sounds great, runs great. Had issues with the back cylinder fouling plugs occasionally, so read on this forum about plug choices and replaced the Autolite 295's with 303's and that fixed everything. I've had this scraper on my JD60 and it works so much better on the WD45. They just make a good pair.
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Very nice. I like it all. Nice tractor. Nice job. Nice buildings. Beautiful background. It's a good thing you commented here on the AC forum, and not up on the general tractor talk forum, because some of the JD guys would get their knickers all twisted up!

We would like a location, though.
 
Thanks Bob. Odd that my state didn't pop up on the post. I live in Montana (Stevensville). Moved here a few years ago and had a 10 ft. wide lane to the garage, and mud and gopher holes from the lane to my shop door, so started buying gravel, gravel, and more gravel. I run a small metal fab shop and needed a good road for customers and steel truck deliveries, etc, so started widening the lane and making a driveway. My Uncle Roger in Emerson, Iowa used to have a box scraper behind his JD A and I always found it fascinating how fast he could fill potholes and fix the road with one vs. a rear blade, so I decided I'd build one a few years ago. 6 ft. wide with 6 rippers. It might be in the next FARM-SHOW magazine for it's adjustable ripper set-up, but not sure. It's sure handy on Alice Chambers. (that's another story altogether!-ha,ha) With the Traction Booster set right, it just levels out fresh gravel piles in 1/2 the time it did with it on my JD 60. After I tried it once on the WD, it never has seen the backside of a John Deere since. A good fit hands down.
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Thank you. My Dad had one back in the day. It was the first tractor I ever got to drive. I think I was in Kindergarten when I got to steer and use the hand clutch. Rode many miles on the tool box. Wasn't really looking for one, but one of my wife's co-workers had one. Wanted to sell it for $2K and that was way too much. I figured if I told her I was interested and left it at that, they'd come down a few bucks over time. About a year later, my wife gets a call and Julie wanted to see if I still wanted her ALICE CHAMBERS tractor and said she'd take $1000 for it, so it was on a trailer headed here a week later. I laughed so hard when I saw her text calling it Alice Chambers and the name stuck. Was a wide front when I got it. Engine stuck, pretty rough shape. No drawbar, no 3 point, tires all shot. Got it put back together in Aug. 2013. Nice to be able to drive one again. Brings back a lot of memories for sure.
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(quoted from post at 16:17:14 11/02/16) I forgot to mention the nice dogs too.
Thanks. Spoiled and lazy dogs that are a ham when a camera comes out. As far as the narrow front, I've always been around them, love the way they turn tight and since I don't have any hilly ground, there isn't any chance of tipping over. It wouldn't take more than 30 minutes to swap it back if need be. I don't have to change out the gearboxes like the I&T manual says on this one. 5 bolts and it's off.
Pat in Montana
 
That style of interchangeable front end is what we call a "picker front". The narrow dual wheel front lets you mount a corn picker on the tractor. It also accepts the single front wheel if you want to switch to that.
 

Very Nice...

I eliminated the sway chains with a vertical pair of Bars on each side of the drawbar Bail..used a grade 9 bolt welded into the Bar os each one, bolted thru the bottom side hole in the Bail..acts like "Elephant Ears"...works nice..

I also put adjustable "Stops" on each side of the rear platform to limit how far the rear arms can drop..
 

If your 3-Point is connected to the "Snap-Coupler" Hook, I would like to see how you did it...

At this point, I can not use the Drawbar when the 3-point is on..
 
(quoted from post at 14:42:08 11/03/16)
If your 3-Point is connected to the "Snap-Coupler" Hook, I would like to see how you did it...

At this point, I can not use the Drawbar when the 3-point is on..
I drilled a 1" hole in the drawbar just behind the snap coupler bell. There is a 14" piece of 1 x 3" flat bar with a 1" hole in the center that is bolted to the drawbar that goes crossways on top of the drawbar. This crossbar has the pins for the lower 3 point arms welded to each end. Works great and I don't have to disconnect it to install the drawbar. I've seen the factory 3 pt. that has the lower arms hooked in the Snap Coupler and did basically the same thing only spread them out 14" so they hang more straight when hooked to an implement vs at such a sharp angle.
 
(quoted from post at 14:42:08 11/03/16)
If your 3-Point is connected to the "Snap-Coupler" Hook, I would like to see how you did it...

Just met you and already lying to ya! Ha, ha. I responded to you last night in the house and was trying to remember how I made that from memory a few years ago and after I hit "send", I started second guessing myself. No, it's not a piece of flat bar across the drawbar, but I used heavy walled tubing with the 3 pt. pins welded on the ends. Think it's a little wider than I said, too after looking at the photo. Anyway, I found a picture of it when I was building it now since I'm back in the shop. It just bolts on the drawbar crossways and hooks the lower 3 point arms to the tractor. I've used this on the box scraper, a rear blade, a 2 bottom plow, and a 3 point harrow and seems to be the cat's meow on all of them.
 

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