so...stuck CA questions

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
After about 10 days of soaking in ATF no movement. Took off valve cover. Looked good. Took of head......yeah not so good.middle 2 cylinders were 1/2 full of watery sludge (and ATF). Cleaned it out and gently scrapped rust. Refilled with ATF. Flipped head over. Valves are rusty. What is best way to clean this up? Thanks.
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One that has had water in the cylinders is about the only one you have to replace sleeves etc on. Head can be cleaned up some but even then a valve job will be needed. That is why on any locked up engine I get in I first check for water/coolant in the cylinders before putting in ATF. Just got a tractor in yesterday that was locked up
 
Looks like you will have a very good bare block when stripped and cleaned up. the head looks like a very good core to rebuild.

A few hours work and they can look like these.

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So....now we start the research on how to do sleeves, pistons and value job. Dumb question but what if we just clean up all the rust. Smooth things up with sandpaper and run it as is? Problems with that? I'm a carpenter that specializes in Trex composite decks so this is a new hobby for us. We do service our work trucks ( oil change, brakes, axle bearings and clutches) but never pulled head off anything!
 
Those couple cylinders look real bad and probably the rings are also shot at the very least,as Ted said if you want a good running tractor you're going to need a rebuild,won't cost that much really.BTW looks like the ATF had zero effect on the deposits and rust in the cylinders.
 
Your never to old to learn and you have just started to learn. I have hundreds of pictures in my fotki site that might be of help. They are all thru the site and not in a teaching order. Pictures were taken over many years to show what it looked like on the topic of the day for the most part. The stuck engine album at the link below was to show that and engine could be rebuilt using used in spec parts and be as good as using all new parts. The little details and understanding them makes the difference.
As to your question about cleaning up it with sand paper would not fill in the rust pits that keep from having the seals necessary to build compression. For an engine to run first you need to build compression. The ability to build compression also gives you the ability to create vacuum to draw fuel into the engine which is the second need thing to make an engine run. the of course the third thing is to get spark to the compressed air mixed fuel at the correct time.
The two cylinders that had water standing will have pits in the valve head and in the seats. I have many pictures in my albums under engine building of what you could expect to see when removing the valves.
Don't get discouraged as you can get help thru this site or other sites with the (details)
By Clicking Here
 
I once tried the smooth things out and run it on a Honda 50 I had years ago. I even honed the cylinder but it was still ruff. Did new rings in it at least 5 times before I got it cleaned up well enough to not eat rings.

Sleeve are pretty easy to pop out and replace. Me I take a piece of oak 2X4 and cut it to lay across the sleeve and wack it a few times with a hammer and they pop right out
 
clean it up???... that requires a total rebuild, or the scrap dealer can clean it up for you. needs a lot more than soaking.
 
Over 50 years ago I worked for an Allis Chalmers dealer in the shop as an apprentice mechanic. We always put new sleeves and pistons in all overhauls, I would go to the scrap pile and get parts for my 2 WC's and CA. I have given junk pistons and sleeves to friends who were doing their own work and could not afford new parts as they were very small time farmers. I even used old spark plugs in my old tractors. Frugal/ poor/ cheap
 
Because I'm new at this got a question for yall. Can we free up motor, clean it up as good as possible. Resemble then fire it up to test drive. Want to see if lift ,pto, and tranny work. If not........ ? But if all works good will tear down and rebuild. I know it won't run right or good but if it runs long enough to help figure out how much I'm gonna spend. ( I still think we got a good deal on tractor it came with 6 implements whole package for 1000. ) I posted pictures a couple weeks ago. Post was "new project ". Thanks for all the good info so far. Grateful to yall for sharing your knowledge.
 
Well if you can clean up the sleeves and free up the rings and also clean up and lap the valve yes you could maybe do it. Who knows you might even get lucky and have something that would run well enough to use for a few years. If you had what I have laying around I know it could be done but I do have a number of sleeves on hand from a C along with pistons etc. I have built more then one engine from parts and pieces of more then one engine and while ya it was not up to factory specs they ran and ran pretty well. Shoot the tractor I use to cut hay with is one that I took 3 tractor to build this one and I did that 5 or so years ago and the only new parts I used in it was sleeve o-rings and oil filter and oil. I even reused the head gasket and used silicone gasket maker for a few of the other gaskets.
 
This is about what my allis c engine looked like a few years ago. I tore it down completely and sent it to my local machine shop. He cleaned/ boiled the block, checked the head for cracks and did the same with the block. it is a fun hobby; tractor restoration is. (and a bit expensive) It is really a rewarding accomplishment when it is up and running. I would do it the right way and find a local machinist and they might even give some tips along the way and also people on this site. Good luck with it! if rest of tractor "looks good" go for it! -Donald NY
 

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