Allis D14 Hydraulics VS Ford 8n Hydraulics

I currently have a ford 8n that has been in the family for about 15 years and we use it for gardening and light bush hogging. A neighbor has a Allis D14 that he wants to trade for our 8n. My question is how are the hydraulics and the way they work versus the 8n that we currently have. Does the D14 have a good hold position and a good draft control for plowing, and is it as easy to work the hydraulics as the 8n with the hydraulic lever on the Allis up on the steering column? My Dad has a Allis WD and I don't really like the hydraulics on it, column shift is not convenient to me, and the hold position is iffy when it works, also with the added on 3 point on the WD, draft control doesn't exactly work like I think it should. Is the D14 the exact same hydraulics as the WD? I would go and try the D14 hydraulics, but the D14 engine is stuck and has been for at least 10 or more years. For the last year it has had 50/50 atf and acetone in all the cylinders and is still stuck fast. He has the head off, and the cylinders are slightly rusted but not pitted.
I know it would be a project, but I don't want to spend a lot of money on the D14 and then find out I don't like the hydraulics, the Ford 8n sure is easy to use, but I think I would like the bigger tractor. Also it would need a 3 point conversion as it is still snap coupler. In my area there are absolutely no snap coupler equipment available, i say this because my Dad has been looking for years for snap coupler equipment for his WD and has only been able to locate a plow and found nothing else around here. So it would have to have a 3 point conversion added.
The neighbor with the D14 bought the tractor 10 years ago with a stuck engine and has never gotten it unstuck, and he also doesn't know anything else about the tractor, like if the hydraulic pump even works or if the tranny and reared is good or bad. The sheetmetal on the tractor is really nice tho, and he has stored it inside since he has owned it. What do you guys think, would the hydraulics be similar to the 8n or not as good since it will have to have a 3 point added? Or maybe I should pass on this D14? Our 8n has never had any problems, starts super easy, don't even have to choke it most times, but it is starting to blow some smoke at times.
 
The D14 is much more of a tractor than the Ford 8N. You have live hyd and pto with the Power Director (hand clutch). No, it is not independent, but the 8N transmission pto is not even live. You get draft control with the D14, even with a 3ph, as long as you buy the correct setup. It needs to be one that connects to the Snap-Coupler, not just attached to the drawbar, or tractor frame. Power Director also gives you 2 speeds in each gear.
 
Will the 3 point conversion hitch from a Allis CA work on this D14? My Dad already has one of those. It looks like a wishbone and has a place for the top link to attach to the wishbone instead of somewhere on the tractor.
 
My old d14 would hold the load up for a long time the Ford will probably leak down but that was designed to get the load off the tractor,

The draft control plowing will work ok on the Allis (if you have all the proper ac snap couple equipment),
Just adding an after market three pt hitch adapter to the Ac will not give you draft control,
The draft control works off that hitch latch under the belly of the tractor, therefore you must have snap couple equipment for this to work

I had a full set of snap couple equipment with my ac d14 and I liked the tractor, but later got a Ferguson to 35 that had a power independent
clutch for the pto operation

If you get another tractor save your money an get a tractor with independent pto,
You will thank me later!!!!!!!!!!!

Just my two cents!!!!!!
 
I'm no 8N fan but I wouldn't trade a good running one for a D14 with a stuck motor and if you don't like the hydraulics on a WD you won't like them on a D14.if both were running and equal condition I'd trade in a heartbeat but I grew up on AC tractors.
 
Well if your 8N runs it is worth at least $1500 maybe more. The D-14 with a locked up engine at the very best is worth $500 and that is pushing it unless the rear tires are in very good condition.

Now if you have the $$ I'd think about buying it out right but no way I'd trade with out a lot of boot to go with it and since you know little to nothing about the D-14 it could well be a money pit to get going
 
hydraulics on a D14 are far superior to a n ford. If the motor ran on the D14 it would be a no brainer to trade, but you are going to spend some bucks to get it going. D14-4 speed tranny with a 2 speed power director that you can use and abuse for hours and not hurt anything. Reverse on a D14 is not that stupid fast thing like a n ford. For the bucks you will need to put into the 14--If you have a n that starts all the time, brakes work 1/2 way ok you probably want to keep it. Most don't. Where are you located I have a whole bunch of snap coupler stuff I would sell reasonable?
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies. After reading them, especially olds comment, I think I should probably not make the trade, as he wanted to trade even. I was kinda counting on getting it running and everything working on the D14. Which would probably not happen, theres always other problems, especially with one that has set so long and with an unknown history. I do believe that I may try to see what he would take for it, cash price. I hate to give up my known good tractor for such a gamble. Also I am in NC to the poster that said he had snap coupler implements for sale, where are they located? I may be interested. I would like to get this D14 as a project, the sheetmetal is very good, the clutch and brake pedals have no wear on the tread area and there is absolutely no play in any of the clutch or brake shafts, and has Allis Chalmers oil filter on it. The draw bar is not worn at all. The neighbor seems to think that the rear tires are the original tires with 50% tread remaining, also I have no idea if they are or not original, but the rims appear solid, like new condition. Thanks again for the replies, If I end up with it, I am sure I will have lots of more questions, like whats the best way to proceed with getting the engine unstuck.
 
Well I am sort of a master at buy tractor with locked up engines and then freeing them up and getting them running. I have freed up over 30 of them so far. What I do is fill the cylinder with ATF after making sure the cylinder have NO water in them and also not so rusty that they had water in them at one time. Once i fill the cylinder with ATF I put the plug back in and then pour as much down the exhaust as I can and then walk away form it for say a week or 2. Then after a bit of time I pull the plugs out making sure not to mix up the plug wires and set a 12 volt batter in and use short fast taps on the starter as I am watching the crank pulley for movement.
 

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