Trouble shooting d17 lack of charge to distributor

I [had] over charging battery - found ground missing on selenoid. LOl, see my other post - the bolt fell down into housing.

Fixed ground. She started right up and ran until I stopped her. I left the battery terminal hooked up - ground unhooked and went home. Next day noothing, again. But still have charged battery.

At that time I [had] current [light meter] from selenoid to 12V regulator (next to distributor) and to starter motor but starter switch would not click.

I noticed a weak wire on generator post on Voltage regulator. Replaced generator wires and reconnected wires to starter switch and starter button and that little short one over to nonworking ammeter gauge - that might have been disconnected.

She started just once and I shut her off to put the tin back on. But then all she does now is turn over fine but no spark. I now only have power discharging from battery to v. regulator next to genny to generator but no current back from selenoid to starter to 12V regulator next to distributor cap.

Is it the voltage regulator?

Battery is at 12+ volts. Generator post A is at -12+ volts with key on. No reading off F post - should there be?

I don't understand the "regulator next to the distributor cap. Do you mean the coil?
A coil has 2 small wires and a fat one the goes to the distributor. One small wire
comes from the ignition switch and the other one goes to the distributor
If that is what you are referring to, you and try a jumper from the battery to the
small post on the coil with the wire that comes from the ignition switch. Your
ignition switch could be faulty. I have had this happen on my D14. LOL Bob

Charging system and ignition system are 2 different circuits and work independently of each other other then the battery. Simple way to trouble shoot is to run a hot wire from the ignition side of the battery or in simple terms the non-ground side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil and see if it runs. If it does the problem is from the coil back to the battery

Ouch, that hurts my engineer eyes just reading. No offense.. but I reccomend you remove ALL wiring.

Test each part individually.

IE, test solenoid and starter with a known good battery.

If it uses a start relay, test that with a load like a head lamp, again, known good battery.

Motor test the generator. If it passes, then we can test the regulator for function once she is running.

Test any ignition or key switch that it uses to power the ignition ( distribuitor ).

Charge the battery over night, see if it is still charged in the morning.

get a working , 0 center ammeter of sufficient range for your generator.

I suggest a rewire as follows:

battery ground to chassis.

battery hot to whatever this machine uses to start. IE.. start switch and solenoid, or start switch and start relay, etc.

relay/solenoid to starter. make sure she is in neutral when you do this in case starter spins at wire hookup.

battery hot to one side of ammeter

hook up regulator to generator.. should be 2-3 wires. ground, maybee, field and armature/generator, depending on what they call it.

wire from the battery terminal on the regulator to the other side of the ammeter. ( if it sparks, or makes the ammeter needle immediately move off 0 to either charge or drain, then the cutout relay is stuck ).

from the same side of the ammeter that the regulator is on, wire to the switch that will power the distribuitor. then wire from that switch to the distribuitor.

test, power the distribuitor and close points. if meter reads negative, proceede, if it reads a charge, swap wires side to side on the ammeter.

nos point, you can power the distribuitor, and should be able to engage the starter.

If she has fuel, air and is timed right, and is in running condition.. she should be able to start.

Once she is started and at sufficient rpm, you should be able to see charge on the ammeter.. if no charge, full field the generator based on field circuit type.

remove field wire at generator and just fold out of the way for the test.

For A circuit, ground the field at the generator, observe meter for change.

For B circuit, apply bat hot to the field at the generator, observe meter for change.

If neither work, but she did motor test ok, then jump bat and arm/gen terminals, then redo test.

if it works, then regulator is bad.

if still no charge.. take gen ( and heck, why not ) reg to the rebuilder. very occasionaly you can get a generator that will sort of pass a motor test but will not charge due to a field fault.

post back.

Sorry- that is what is written on it - just says "12V regulator" - I was drawing a blank. It is the coil. (It was a long day)

Gonna try the suggestions.....thanks much.

LOl, my eyes were hurting trying to read the engineering schematic - not my area of work.

Test each part individually.

IE, test solenoid and starter with a known good battery. - [Did that, bought a new one - new one and old one gave me the same output.]

If it uses a start relay, test that with a load like a head lamp, again, known good battery. (Hmm, no lights hooked up... but will ask how to do this...)

Motor test the generator. If it passes, then we can test the regulator for function once she is running. (how do I do this in a cornfield - no electric out there.)

Test any ignition or key switch that it uses to power the ignition ( distribuitor ). (pretty sure I did this)

Charge the battery over night, see if it is still charged in the morning. [Yup].

get a working , 0 center ammeter of sufficient range for your generator. [K]

I suggest a rewire as follows:

battery ground to chassis. [Did that before I started].

battery hot to whatever this machine uses to start. [I have power on this wire - to and from the selanoid to the battery and to the switch.]

relay/solenoid to starter. make sure she is in neutral when you do this in case starter spins at wire hookup. ( did not do that one but it has power)

battery hot to one side of - ammneter [gauge does not work but the voltage going in and out says it is passing through]

hook up regulator to generator.. should be 2-3 wires. ground, maybee, field and armature/generator, depending on what they call it. (This is what I rewired with new)

wire from the battery terminal on the regulator to the other side of the ammeter. ( if it sparks, or makes the ammeter needle immediately move off 0 to either charge or drain, then the cutout relay is stuck ). (Hmm - ammeter itself never worked - so guess I need to replace it to do this test)

from the same side of the ammeter that the regulator is on, wire to the switch that will power the distribuitor. then wire from that switch to the distribuitor. ( this wire has juice when generator spins)

test, power the distribuitor and close points. if meter reads negative, proceede, if it reads a charge, swap wires side to side on the ammeter (Meter reads positive 12.4 volts and genny engages but no juice to starter)

nos point, you can power the distribuitor, and should be able to engage the starter.

If she has fuel, air and is timed right, and is in running condition.. she should be able to start. ( she was running when she quit the first time when selenoid ground screw fell out)

Once she is started and at sufficient rpm, you should be able to see charge on the ammeter.. if no charge, full field the generator based on field circuit type. (guess I better get an ammeter)

remove field wire at generator and just fold out of the way for the test.

For A circuit, ground the field at the generator, observe meter for change.

For B circuit, apply bat hot to the field at the generator, observe meter for change.

If neither work, but she did motor test ok, then jump bat and arm/gen terminals, then redo test. (what does that mean - motor test?)

if it works, then regulator is bad.

if still no charge.. take gen ( and heck, why not ) reg to the rebuilder. very occasionaly you can get a generator that will sort of pass a motor test but will not charge due to a field fault. - it is the original generator.... original starter.... original key switch... probably gonna do them all.... sigh.....

HEY THANKS MUCH _ Will post back next week when I get back to this.

post back.