(quoted from post at 05:30:18 07/07/16) Does the shiny "back plate" need to be removed to install the
replacement water pump onto an AC "CA" tractor? It came
with it and didn't know if I needed to remove it or leave it.
(quoted from post at 09:19:09 07/07/16) I don't know much about CA's.
The thermostat goes in with the spring down. That's the way you have it. But the thermostat does not look like it is completely seated. Most thermostats sit down in a recessed area.
Is there a recess in the top housing for the thermostat?
Can you post a pic of the thermostat installed in the top housing?
(quoted from post at 08:02:07 07/14/16)
One carefully placed 1/16" hole is all that is needed to allow the Block to fill.
I often add one 1/16" hole if there is non apparent..
I got everything back together and the radiator installed and filled. Ran the tractor for 15 min and got it up to about 140 degrees (new temp gauge). Noticed that the water pump is leaking around 2 of the 3 bolt heads. At the other bolt, it's leaking where the pump meets the block dang it!!!!! That front shroud and radiator are gonna have to come back off and that is the hardest thing I've done yet.
(quoted from post at 21:45:43 07/18/16)I got everything back together and the radiator installed and filled. Ran the tractor for 15 min and got it up to about 140 degrees (new temp gauge). Noticed that the water pump is leaking around 2 of the 3 bolt heads. At the other bolt, it's leaking where the pump meets the block dang it!!!!! That front shroud and radiator are gonna have to come back off and that is the hardest thing I've done yet.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do about the leaking water? Have you guys ran into this before with these engines? I know the Farmall engines I've replaced water pumps on haven't ever done this.
Check both mating surfaces with a straight edge for warping check your bolt length ( fit check parts and the bolt length dry to see that it is not bottoming out in the hole) Note; Check around under the head of the bolt and at the mating surfaces for gaps or obstructions that wont allow the parts to mate properly with a feeler gauge. If you still have a gap under the head after it is fit checked the bolts are to long or bolt holes are off center . if you have gap at mating surface but does not exceed .004 Seal both the pump and the attachment point. Now seal the threads and along the length of and under the head of the bolt and torque per your Maintenance manual. It may seem a little extreme but do you really want to do it again.
(quoted from post at 02:30:06 07/19/16) Could you please explain the process of sealing the mating surface and the bolts and bolt heads. Is there a certain way it's done? Is there a particular product I should use? Inreallybdont want to do it again!
(quoted from post at 18:01:42 07/19/16)(quoted from post at 02:30:06 07/19/16) Could you please explain the process of sealing the mating surface and the bolts and bolt heads. Is there a certain way it's done? Is there a particular product I should use? Inreallybdont want to do it again!
Yeah Byron, I don't think I want to get THAT involved. I was hoping a standard sealer would work. I scraped all mating surfaces clean with a razor scraper and made sure all bolts were good and TIGHT when installing.
(quoted from post at 22:51:37 07/22/16) BHunt is correct 1422 is exellent sealant, but, if you don't want to get that involved, autoparts have a product called, I think RightStuff,
it will be with sealants and silicon, great product.
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