Replacement water pump - quick question help

RTR

Well-known Member
Does the shiny "back plate" need to be removed to install the
replacement water pump onto an AC "CA" tractor? It came
with it and didn't know if I needed to remove it or leave it.
 
(quoted from post at 05:30:18 07/07/16) Does the shiny "back plate" need to be removed to install the
replacement water pump onto an AC "CA" tractor? It came
with it and didn't know if I needed to remove it or leave it.

I went ahead and installed it with the back plate on.

Now I can't get the thermostat to work. How in the heck does this contraption install? I realize I bought an A&I one but that is what the parts store ordered for me. I didn't know until I got it. If I had it to go back I would have gotten an original Agco Allis part. How does this one work?? The top housing won't fit all the way down when I installed like in the picture. I could have it wrong as there is no instructions. Please help....

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I don't know much about CA's.

The thermostat goes in with the spring down. That's the way you have it. But the thermostat does not look like it is completely seated. Most thermostats sit down in a recessed area.

Is there a recess in the top housing for the thermostat?

Can you post a pic of the thermostat installed in the top housing?
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:09 07/07/16) I don't know much about CA's.

The thermostat goes in with the spring down. That's the way you have it. But the thermostat does not look like it is completely seated. Most thermostats sit down in a recessed area.

Is there a recess in the top housing for the thermostat?

Can you post a pic of the thermostat installed in the top housing?

In the picture, The brass piece is installed flush in a recess in the housing. I know it's hard to tell but it is. I'm not sure if I even have all of that put in right.
 
Take a look at AGCO parts. Two different housings are shown. I am familiar with the earlier one, like used on B's & C's. You have the later one, with a bypass. From the picture it looks like the thermostat sets down in the lower housing.
 
That looks like a by-pass type thermostat to me.
Doesn't allow water to go out to radiator until t-stat opens.
Recirculates within block and head.

Do you have the old thermostat?
Did it have the black metal ring?
 


One carefully placed 1/16" hole is all that is needed to allow the Block to fill.

I often add one 1/16" hole if there is non apparent..
 
(quoted from post at 08:02:07 07/14/16)

One carefully placed 1/16" hole is all that is needed to allow the Block to fill.

I often add one 1/16" hole if there is non apparent..

I got everything back together and the radiator installed and filled. Ran the tractor for 15 min and got it up to about 140 degrees (new temp gauge). Noticed that the water pump is leaking around 2 of the 3 bolt heads. At the other bolt, it's leaking where the pump meets the block dang it!!!!! That front shroud and radiator are gonna have to come back off and that is the hardest thing I've done yet.
 
I got everything back together and the radiator installed and filled. Ran the tractor for 15 min and got it up to about 140 degrees (new temp gauge). Noticed that the water pump is leaking around 2 of the 3 bolt heads. At the other bolt, it's leaking where the pump meets the block dang it!!!!! That front shroud and radiator are gonna have to come back off and that is the hardest thing I've done yet.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do about the leaking water? Have you guys ran into this before with these engines? I know the Farmall engines I've replaced water pumps on haven't ever done this.

I plan to tear it back down tonight. Not looking forward to removing that radiator and front cowl again!
 
(quoted from post at 21:45:43 07/18/16)
I got everything back together and the radiator installed and filled. Ran the tractor for 15 min and got it up to about 140 degrees (new temp gauge). Noticed that the water pump is leaking around 2 of the 3 bolt heads. At the other bolt, it's leaking where the pump meets the block dang it!!!!! That front shroud and radiator are gonna have to come back off and that is the hardest thing I've done yet.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do about the leaking water? Have you guys ran into this before with these engines? I know the Farmall engines I've replaced water pumps on haven't ever done this.

Check both mating surfaces with a straight edge for warping check your bolt length ( fit check parts and the bolt length dry to see that it is not bottoming out in the hole) Note; Check around under the head of the bolt and at the mating surfaces for gaps or obstructions that wont allow the parts to mate properly with a feeler gauge. If you still have a gap under the head after it is fit checked the bolts are to long or bolt holes are off center . if you have gap at mating surface but does not exceed .004 Seal both the pump and the attachment point. Now seal the threads and along the length of and under the head of the bolt and torque per your Maintenance manual. It may seem a little extreme but do you really want to do it again.
 
Could you please explain the process of sealing the mating surface and the bolts and bolt heads. Is there a certain way it's done? Is there a particular product I should use? Inreallybdont want to do it again!
 
(quoted from post at 02:30:06 07/19/16) Could you please explain the process of sealing the mating surface and the bolts and bolt heads. Is there a certain way it's done? Is there a particular product I should use? Inreallybdont want to do it again!

This is what I would use with an ill fitting part or a warped part but of course the choice is yours its a process that depends on cleanliness and quickness heat will make this sealant dry faster so you need to be it the shade. Get the entire process down before you mix it this stuff is not cheap but it will outlast the pump and the tractor.

PR-1422 Class B is an aircraft integral fuel tank sealant, MIL-S-8802, AMS-S-8802 Class B. It has a service temperature range from -65°F (-54°C) to 250°F (121°C), with intermittent excursions up to 275°F (135°C). This material is designed for fillet sealing of fuel tanks and other aircraft fuselage sealing applications. The cured sealant maintains excellent elastomeric properties after prolonged exposure to both jet fuel and aviation gas and water. Here's a link to the same thing but cheaper. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Flamemaster-CS3204-B2-KIT-6oz-Pack-AMS-S-8802-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Fresh-Stock-/300859846555 $20.95

Most fasteners used in aircraft manufacturing are installed wet. The rivets or bolts are covered with sealant during installation. The process prevents moisture from penetrating the aircraft and provides corrosion protection to critical areas, such as the fuel tanks. Wet fastener installation is also used for pressurization this is labor-intensive and very time consuming Note:this is a 2 hour sealant so be prepared.

Clean the inside of the bolt holes first on the pump and its mating surface. You can use a hole brush with thinner or acetone see picture or a piece of rag and a wire also clean the bolts and washers if you have them.
Clean both mating surfaces that is the water pump and its mating surfaces with thinner or acetone then immediately wipe any residue with a clean dry rag.

Apply a bead of sealant around the shank and under the head of the bolts now install washers if you have then. Apply sealant to the entire shank of the bolt and the bottom of the washers put it on thick also seal the threads of the bolts if you suspect a crack in the hole or are not worried about the torque value.
Any type of lubricant or this sealer on the threads will increase the torque. Personally I won't worry about the torque just get it tight. Apply sealant to BOTH mating surfaces and INSIDE the bolt holes of each part you can use the hole brush here.

Then roll it with a roller see picture I know you don't have one but you can use a roll of masking tape the idea is to get complete coverage and this step will insure the sealants adherence to the parts.

Install the thermostat (I think you should drill the hole in it relieve some pressure), and the gasket then carefully line up and install the pump and its attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts a little at a time until tight. You can clean up any squeeze out of sealant with thinner or acetone don't wait for it to dry and pull on it. Now apply a coat of sealant on the bolt heads and any of the threads or the bottom of the bolt hole. Make sure both ends are covered completely. see picture.

As you can see the sealant comes in a tube use the plunger to push the activator in the tube then you can mix it by hand not that easy or take a tapered rotary file and drill insert the rotary file in the end of the handle turn on the drill and move it in and out until it is a consistent black color.
Hope it helps Byron

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(quoted from post at 18:01:42 07/19/16)
(quoted from post at 02:30:06 07/19/16) Could you please explain the process of sealing the mating surface and the bolts and bolt heads. Is there a certain way it's done? Is there a particular product I should use? Inreallybdont want to do it again!

Yeah Byron, I don't think I want to get THAT involved. I was hoping a standard sealer would work. I scraped all mating surfaces clean with a razor scraper and made sure all bolts were good and TIGHT when installing.
 
BHunt is correct 1422 is exellent sealant, but, if you don't want to get that involved, autoparts have a product called, I think RightStuff,
it will be with sealants and silicon, great product.
 
(quoted from post at 22:51:37 07/22/16) BHunt is correct 1422 is exellent sealant, but, if you don't want to get that involved, autoparts have a product called, I think RightStuff,
it will be with sealants and silicon, great product.

What If I used the permatex orange sealant on the pump-to-block surface, and used it on the shafts of the bolts and under the bolt heads? Do you think that would work?
 

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