Alwright you guy;s who is the local 6080 GURU

the tractor vet

Well-known Member
One of my old customers has a 6080 and the other day he was working ground with it and the diff loc just up and locked it;s self in and will not unlock. The diff loc pedal is not hooked up at all and infact it is behind the seat . Soooooooooooo my question is why , how and what is the easiest way to get it unlocked ?? I went down today and looked at it and checked the linkage on the outside and everything was free movement out there . Looked over the I T manual a bit but like all IT manuals it leaves a little bit to be desired . First thought was to remove the rock shaft housing , but that does not give access to the rear end . Next thought was pull the PTO unit and the parking brake unit . Really don't even want to think about a split . Not sure if pulling the left axle housing will be of much help here . Need some insight as i am NOT A/C qualified . But he is a good old customer and his beer is COLD.
 
Did you try hitting the brakes individually while moving? Might jar it enough to release it. Ben
 
The differential has failed. Keep screwing around and it will destroy the ring and pinion gears. Remove the PTO housing and look at it to see.
 
Ya really know how to make life difficult for me , so i guess this means cab removal and a total tear down and split . OH JOY . This was NOT on the game plan as if i do not have enough to do with tractors i know . Thanks .
 
Pull the PTO housing off first to verify what I think has happened. I'd never pull the cab. Lift it slightly at the rear and roll the rear end out from under it.
 
If it hasn't damaged the ring and pinion, just pull the PTO housing and axles and repair it without a split.
 
What makes you think it's locked if the lock isn't even used? My first guess would be spider gear failure.
 
Well since i have never been in the donkey side of a 6080 i had no idea of how the diff loc worked . But now that i have been in one you are correct the spider gears are welded to the pin and the pin is welded in . This is as far as i got today due to the fact that my truck is down and for the time being i am usen the wife's Durango to get around so i do not have all my tools with me . Don't figure the Durango will carry everything so i just have a small road box and some misc. tools in the back along with my electric supplies and one tray of metric sockets and some metric wrenches . and no air tools . Now how far i have to tear it down all depends on if the pin will clear the ring gear or not and if i can get my die grinder in there and cut out the weld and get the pin out of the seized spiders or not . With the ground starting to dry and it is starting to warm up so is the cell phone as the calls are now starting to come in . I am hopping to be able to see what is wrong with my truck and get it back up and moving , the Wife or should i say as i call her the WAR DEPT is complaining about me getting in it after a service call to a dairy farm and making it stink like a barn.
 
That's unfortunate indeed, almost certainly the result of excessive spinning one wheel at high speed. I have seen it happen on truck axles and power dividers in the winter when drivers try and melt there way out of the snow
 
Most are run way low on hydraulic oil and then this is what happens. Got to keep it full and or a gallon overfull for best results.
 
well this is what happens when you do not lift the implement out of the ground at the head lands and STAND on the brakes at full power making a tight turn . I tried to tell my buddy this for years but did he listen , Nope . Then he kept asking me how come i have all these shinny small metal flakes in the hyd filter on his 1066 , I told him that one day he will find out and one morning i get the call, The 1066 's clutch just went out . You need to come out and fix this NOW i need to plow , can you have it done by tomorrow . NOPe and it is not the clutch , oh yea it's the clutch it won't move . It was NOT the clutch on the 1066 he ate the whole rear end out . On I H's they just stop moving and i guess on Allis they just keep going straight . Now if ya wanted to really fix the problem better then the factory one could do some fancy machine work and instill needle bearing on the spiders and double washer the side gears with better lube slots and find a way to get more lube to the spiders . After my buddy's LEARNING CURVE and the cost of his education on the 1066 and the time involved in chasing parts since he got sticker shock on NEW OEM parts he is a lot more genital , Now to just train his kid on the use of a T/A my life would be great.
 
well for the most part neglect is what keeps green stamps in my pocket . Once i got the PTO off i saw what was wrong , SOOOOOOooooo Monday the farmer will have to come up and we will get my splitting stand in his truck and i will pull the axles off and get the carrier out and up on the bench and grind out the welds.to try and get the pin out . I want my stand on it just to be safe getting to old to take chances with wooden blocks . And if i have to do some creative cutting torch work i want it where i can get comfortable and do surgical cutting not junk yard cutting . Thanks for your insight hope i can held you out someday on a Binder.
 
Trust me. I know of dozens of those 6080 tractors with 10,000 plus hrs on them that have never failed a differential. Keep the rear end full of oil and if it was mine, a couple gallons overfull, which will hurt nothing.
 

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